Why are vintners reluctant to put a wine's true geography on the label?

Wednesday, 12 May, 2004
Jancis Robinson
I know that this whine must seem ridiculously Eurocentric to some
(With thanks to San Francisco Chronicle)

Is geography becoming redundant in the world of wine? I sometimes fear so and it sends a shiver down my spine.

For it is wine's ability to express the spot on the globe that was responsible for it, that is for me, one of the most thrilling ways it differs from any other drink (and most foods).

Take this two-page press release about a new wine from the Australian giant Hardy Wine Co., chosen at random from the hundreds that flood my letter box every month. Not one of the 500 words about its new/retro label gives me any clue whatsoever about where the Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes that go into the two bottlings were grown. Instead I am told that the wine will 'provide excellent on-shelf standout.'

I did, subsequently, discover that the label on the wine itself carries the name of the dominant Australian wine state, but there are no further clues. But at least Australians are consistent in their blithe disregard for geography. They have always been enthusiastic inter-regional blenders.

- Jancis Robinson

To read Jancis' article in full, please visit: SFGate.com

Issued by: San Francisco Chronicle
Email: chronfeedback@sfchronicle.com