2002 saw Bon Cap's first vintage sell out, a remarkable achievement for a new winery. They now export to nine countries and have introduced a second, easy drinking, label Ruins using fruit from younger vines with less wood aging. Bon Cap red wines are aged in 80% new French oak barrels and their distinctive label has had a classy makeover. There is an appropriate new ladybird logo containing their initials and Braille embossing remains.
The back labels of both wines show the organic certificate but Michelle says she would have no compunction about removing organic references if it seemed the wines were being treated differently because of it. 'Being organic is what we are and what we do,' she said, 'not an add-on marketing tool. We don't want to be in a niche category but to be judged against the world's best.' There doesn't seem much risk of that; Bon Cap wines have been selected by British Airways, their Pinotage was a Pinotage Top 10 finalist, and there is no shortage of silver and gold medals, the latest being two gold medals at Concours de Mondial Brussels 2004.
Stepping back into bright sunlight, it's just a couple of metres to the edge of the vineyards, and facing the winery tasting room is a line of workers cottages. 'An American visitor asked us why we didn't move them as she thought they spoiled the view of the vineyards,' Michelle snorted 'But they are as much a part of Bon Cap as the vines. Without our farm workers we wouldn't be here.' At the end of vine rows a strange metal and blue plastic pole rises from the ground. 'This is one of our moisture sensors' explains Michelle. 'They feed data back to the winery so we know when to irrigate, and we get a complete historical record throughout the vineyards.'
And water is the key. The farm has an annual rainfall of just 125mm. (What happens to vines without water is illustrated by a block on the edge of the farm that was no longer needed; after irrigation stopped the vines died, leaving rows of black dried wood without even one leaf showing).
Narrow concrete channels funnel life-giving water from the Breede, a tea-coloured river snaking low between wide high banks. Michelle pointed out a wooden house perched high on the top of the riverbank. 'It's on stilts because the river comes right up under it when it floods.'
To prevent moisture loss and keep the soil cool Roelf planted lucerne - a type of alfalfa - as groundcover between the rows. 'We were recommended to let sheep graze the lucerne to keep it short,' laughs Michelle, 'but that's nonsense, as their woolly coats snag on vine spurs, rubbing off lanoline which inhibits vine growth.' The lucerne consumes some water but this encourages vine roots to descend even deeper into the ground.
Bon Cap is only 50 kilometres from the sea, and at night it is cooler than Stellenbosch as cold sea air is pushed into the valley through a gap in the surrounding mountains. 'It's not always as hot as this,' Michelle remarked. 'We've had frost that killed vine buds, and we've had ankle deep snow.' This was hard to imagine as summer sun beat down over peaceful vineyards.
Notes on the wines:
The Ruins Organic Pinotage 2003 13.5% alcohol
This had been bottled three weeks previously and was not yet released.
Bright purple colour, light bodied with fruity raspberry flavours and a
tannic finish.
Bon Cap Organic Pinotage 2003 13.5% alcohol
Also bottled three weeks previously and not yet released. Garnet colour, with a purple rim, fuller bodied than the Ruins with plump rounded fruits-of-the-forest flavours woven with structured tannins and a lingering dry finish. 'We pick only on phenolic ripeness,' said Michelle. We use Balling as an indicator, but we pick on taste'.
Bon Cap Organic Pinotage 2002 13.5% alcohol
Soft flowery nose with coffee undertones. Delicious ripe inviting fruit
flavours, soft blackberries and cherries and a soft spicy finish.
Bon Cap Petit Verdot 2003 13.5% alcohol
Tasted as a barrel sample, will be released as a single varietal. Intense
glass staining colour with powerful fruit and spicy bacon flavours, and a deliciously silky mouth feel.
Other varietal wines made by Bon Cap are Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier (their only white), while Merlot, Pinot Noir, Touriga Nacional and Tannat varieties are also grown.
Contact details:
boncap@intekom.co.za
Telephone: +27 (0) 23 - 626 1628