Cape Cuisine - Savoy Cabbage Restaurant & Champagne Bar

Friday, 5 March, 2004
WOSA / DKC
Eclectic South African cuisine
One of the highlights co-inciding with Cape Wine 2004, also open to the local public, is Celebration of Cape Cuisine at the Castle of Good Hope. Twenty top Cape chefs, such as Peter Goffe-Wood, Graeme Shapiro, Margot Janse and Eric Bingo will each prepare a sample-size signature dish, accompanied by a local wine. Tickets to the event, on the night of April 1, entitles visitors to indulge in all 20 combinations. Booking for Cape Wine 2004, entitling visitors to attend for two days, at R200 a head and for Celebration of Cape Cuisine at R300, can be made on line at www.capewine2004.co.za

The Institute of Culinary Arts (ICA) was established as a professional and well-rounded training facility for those entering the world of fine cuisine, where the aim is to train and inspire culinary arts graduates, professional chefs and amateur cooks. Setting the standards for the culinary industry through holistic and classical training, providing a platform for entrepreneurial development. To find out more about the ICA, please visit www.icachef.co.za

SAVOY CABBAGE

This restaurant in the bustling city centre is an inviting mix of contemporary accents – glass, concrete and an open-fronted kitchen gleaming with stainless steel; and warmer tones – exposed brick walls, worn wooden surfaces and individual touches like cabbage leaf-shaped light fittings. The deliciously eclectic food is based on fresh seasonal produce. ‘We are a rainbow nation with many groups – I steal from all of them! My spicing is Malay and Indian influenced, I dip into French, English, Afrikaans and African traditions, borrow techniques from all over the world,’ says chef Peter Pankhurst. ‘ I use South African ingredients in my food, like sour figs. l substitute local brandy for cognac, use port from the Little Karoo. I utilise local wine as much as possible, I cook with it in everything…’

Grilled warthog loin with sour fig sauce on a ‘neep and tattie’ cake with red onion marmalade
SERVES 6
1,4kg warthog loin, silver skin removed and marinated overnight in brine (you can also use pork or wild boar)

Sour fig sauce
Sour figs are indigenous to South Africa and are quite unique. Quinces are a suitable substitute.
4 shallots, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
200g sour figs, roughly chopped
1 sprig thyme
300ml dry white wine (preferably a Riesling)
500ml veal stock
300ml chicken stock
300ml cream
salt and milled black pepper

Fry the shallots and garlic gently in oil until softened but not coloured. Add the sour figs and thyme and cook gently for 5 minutes. Deglaze the pan with white wine and boil uncovered until reduced and syrupy. Add the veal stock and chicken stock, and reduce to about three-quarters depending on the viscosity of the stock. Add the cream and reduce to a coating consistency. Strain, bring back to the boil and season with salt and pepper (add a touch of sugar if necessary). Keep warm.

Neep and tattie cakes
500g potatoes, peeled and diced into 1,5 cm squares
500g turnips or swedes, peeled and diced into
1,5 cm squares 50g flat-leafed parsley, finely chopped salt and milled black pepper
200g butter for frying

Cook the potatoes and turnips or swedes separately in salted water until tender. Drain well. Mix together in a bowl with the parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Shape into six cakes using a ring mould approximately 6cm in diameter, pressing lightly to ensure that the cakes hold their shape. Fry in the butter until golden brown on both sides. Drain on paper towel and keep warm.

Red onion marmalade
4 large red onions, peeled and sliced
100g butter
150g sugar
400ml ruby port
200ml dry red wine (we use the local Pinotage variety)

Cook the onions in the butter in a pan over very low heat until they collapse and caramelise (this will take 45 to 60 minutes). Add the sugar and cook, stirring constantly, for 10 minutes more. Add the port and red wine, increase the heat and cook uncovered until the liquid had reduced almost completely and the mixture is a deep red and sticky. The marmalade will keeps for two to three weeks in the fridge.

To assemble
Remove the warthog from the brine. Dry well and cut into six equal portions. Grill for about 6 minutes per side, depending on the degree of doneness preferred. (Lightly coating the warthog with ground fennel seeds before grilling adds an interesting flavour.) Leave to rest for 5 minutes. Slice thinly against the grain. Place neep and tattie cakes on six plates. If you wish, a pile of buttered spinach may be placed on top. Form the sliced warthog into a round and place on top of the spinach. Place a spoonful of red onion marmalade on top of the warthog and spoon sour fig sauce around.

Wine note
Peter Pankhurst settled on the Jordan Barrel-Fermented Chenin Blanc 2003, with its citrus and tropical fruit, and hints of honey interwoven with a spicy complexity. ‘A subtly flavoured dish needs to be partnered with a wine which displays equal subtlety of flavour. This wooded Chenin Blanc works fantastically, the integrated oaking complements the flavours in the dish,’ he recommends.
Other suggestions: Old Vines Barrel Reserve Chenin Blanc 2003, De Trafford Chenin Blanc 2003, Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc 2002, Kanu Chenin Blanc Wooded 2002

Savoy Cabbage, Heritage Square, 101 Hout Street, Cape Town
Tel: +27 (0) 21 424-2626
Email: savoycab@iafrica.com