An increasing number of Bordeaux producers are stepping outside appellation rules in favour of Vin de France, seeking greater freedom over grape varieties, winemaking techniques and branding. While still a small part of regional production, the category is becoming a vehicle for innovation, climate adaptation and commercial flexibility.
Adventurous, experimental (or frustrated) winemakers finding appellation rules too restrictive are making a break for it and offering Vin de France cuvées. Still a tiny part of the region’s production, these fun and creative wines are springing up across Bordeaux.
AOP or VdF?
For their wines to qualify for one of the 67 Bordeaux appellation wines, winemakers must adhere to strict rules. These govern what (varieties), where (geographical location) and how (yields, cultivation and winemaking methods). There is also a taste test to confirm quality, but also that the style conforms to the name. Understandably, from a consumer point of view, if you buy a Margaux, you want it to taste like Margaux, but it doesn’t leave much room for experimentation or offer the flexibility to correspond to changing market demand.
There’s a perception of older, more rigid rules (and sometimes members of tasting panels) controlling the wines. Experimental winemakers are unlikely to get their natural, orange or Pet Nat wines approved by the appellation. Even more conventional wines might fall foul of the rules, and if a grape variety is not officially sanctioned, growers cannot add it to their blend.
Anecdotal
Although Vin de France still only represents about 2% of regional production (about 132,000 hl), you’ll now find examples across the region, with varieties such as Chardonnay, Syrah and, increasingly, Chenin.
Still Blanc de Noirs, ‘non-traditional’ effervescent techniques, multi-vintage blends, low alcohol and more.
This is not unique to Bordeaux, nor to France; there’s more Vino d’Italia and Vino de España about, too. In Bordeaux, with its traditional image and despite the diversity of styles it already offers, it somehow feels more rebellious.
Creative freedom
"Vin de France" (VDF) seems to be the nomenclature of choice for rebellious winemakers. A national category, it can be produced throughout all the wine regions of France with no geographical limits. It gives winemakers the freedom to choose grape varieties and mention them on the label, they can blend from different regions and vintages, and create taste profiles that don’t fit the received wisdom of the region. There’s also no tasting test.
In 2009, Vin de France officially replaced Vin de Table; this rebrand allowed producers to mention grape varieties and vintages on the label, formerly prohibited. The objective was to create a higher quality image, removing stigma around the label. Although this may be more in an older French generation, and these wines are targeting a younger market, who are rejecting a stuffy, traditional image and looking for something more fun.
Financial freedom
In the current challenging market, no yield and no density constraints can reduce per-litre production costs, and interprofessional levies are also lower. I first heard this from a wine maker in the Médoc producing canned rosé. I asked why he was not using the Bordeaux Rosé AOP. His immediate response was lower levies, and secondly, that consumers of tinned rosé probably aren’t looking for Bordeaux on a can! CIVB and ODG (appellation organisation) levies were mentioned by several producers.
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