Wine is facing a cyclical adjustment, not crisis, argues MW

Monday, 1 December, 2025
The Drinks Business, Matthew Deller MW
Master of Wine Matthew Deller tackles "the great wine debate" as he responds to an article in which it was suggested that the category is suffering from more than just a temporary downturn.

The question of whether wine faces a structural decline or a cyclical adjustment has resurfaced with every major economic contraction of the past century. Current conditions, including slowing volume growth, falling fine-wine indices and demographic shifts, invite the same debate. A review of global data suggests that the pattern is cyclical within developed markets, structural in some behavioural aspects, and ultimately consistent with the long-term evolution of a mature category.

The fine wine market’s contraction in 2024 represents normal correction after a speculative surge. Liv-ex indices fell approximately 11% during the year, following a rise of more than 30% between 2020 and 2022. Market behaviour aligns with classic price elasticity in luxury goods: sharp appreciation driven by constrained supply and speculative investment, followed by deflation as liquidity tightens. Even after the decline, global fine-wine prices remain close to twice their 2014 levels. Historically, similar corrections have occurred after every major macroeconomic tightening, including 2008 and 2011, without altering the long-term trend of real-value appreciation.

Cyclical constraint not fundamental retreat

At the broader market level, global still-wine volumes fell by roughly 5% in 2024 according to the OIV. NielsenIQ recorded a corresponding fall in value of less than 1%, implying that the losses were concentrated in lower-priced tiers while premium and fine categories held share. This divergence of volume and value mirrors prior downturns when consumers reduced frequency but not necessarily trading level, signalling cyclical constraint rather than fundamental retreat.

Between 2021 and 2024, IWSR data shows a decline of about five million monthly wine drinkers across key mature markets even as adult populations grew by roughly nine million. Market penetration slipped from 36% to 35%.

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