It was in the midst of Cape Wine that Wines of South Africa unveiled its new marketing slogan – “There’s sunshine inside” – to celebrate its winemaking heritage. Having spent a week in South Africa, including three intensive days at the show, Richard Siddle thinks that could easily be swapped for “There’s quality inside” such was the overwhelming standard of wines on show – at all price levels. In part two of his extensive analysis of Cape Wine he looks at the steps winemakers are implementing to take their wines to the next level, including exploring new regions and terroirs, and analyses why so many producers are now looking to seriously export their wines across Africa and spread their exports risk away from increasingly difficult and unpredictable markets such as the UK and the US.
“There is just a real effort to make delicious affordable wine and have a great time making and selling it.” As marketing slogans go it is a bit longer than the one Wines of South Africa has just come up with, but it neatly sums up the spirit, personality and quality of winemaking in South Africa.
For that canny line we have to thank Andrew Johnson, managing director of Woodwinters Agencies, that has been long-time supporter of quality, premium wines from right across South Africa.
It also very succinctly sums up the overriding takeaway from Cape Wine 2025 that the quality of its wines have never been better. Right across the board. At every price point. Proof, if it was still needed, that this still young wine producing country is year-on-year understanding how to make better quality wine.
“We definitely understand our place now after 20 years of making wine,” says Jean-Claude Martin, co-owner and winemaker at Creation Wines. “We know what our best farm practices are for our land. We have learnt from our mistakes. We feel more confident in ourselves, but are still excited about what we can do to make elegant wines.”
Producers like Creation Wines also now have a back catalogue, if you like, of past hits they can look back on and use “as reference points” for the wines they are making now.
Be it in how and where they are planting vines, which varieties they are using – with Creation about to introduce Picpoul de Pinet for the first time – and how they then handle and pick the fruit for extra freshness and elegance.
“Everything has changed in how we make our wine over the last 10 years,” he says. “In the past everything was very controlled, but over the years we have learned to be much more hands off,” says Martin, referring to his “less is more” approach.
“That’s the best way to reflect the place we come from - 80% of the wine comes from the vineyard, 20% is what we do in the winery. Which is why to be a good winemaker you need to be a good farmer. We are not rockstars, we are farmers. Which is why biodiversity is the key.”
Ken Forrester of Ken Forrester Wines says it was great to see the producers at Cape Wine totally focusing in on the quality of their wine.
“It’s been not so much about our fynbos, more about the quality of our wine and what we can do as a wine industry,” he says. “That’s very refreshing to see. Yes, we have amazing flora and fauna but we also have magnificent Chenin Blancs and Cabernets so let’s talk about how wonderful they are. The quality of our wine is what it is all about.”
Hal Wilson, managing director of Cambridge Wine Merchants, says the three year gap since the last Cape Wine meant there was a “very evident” step up in quality.
“Winemakers are experimenting more with other vessels for fermenting and ageing, which along with more gentle extraction is resulting in wines that are more elegant and textural,” he says.
He describes South Africa’s Chenin Blanc as “a superstar grape with many expressions…nearly all of them excellent”.
How far South Africa can go in championing Chenin Blanc and making it it's overall hero grape variety was one of the key points raised at a separate debate held during Cape Wine with Bruce Jack, founder of Bruce Jack Wines, Frans Smit, managing director of Spier Wine Farm and Naretha Ricome, head of Advini South Africa.
Together they believe there is a real opportunity to cut through with consumers around the world by making Chenin Blanc one of its star attractions and what differentiates to other countries around the world. In much the same way that Argentina has done with Malbec and New Zealand has achieved to extraordinary levels with Sauvignon Blanc.
Wilson also believes more should be done to promote and revive the debate around Pinotage. South Africa’s ultimate indigenous grape variety that has had such a chequered history.
He explains why: “With 100 years since the first crossing and planting there was a great opportunity to market Pinotage around the world as a uniquely South African offering, as well as describe how growers and winemakers have learnt to bring the best out of the grape over the three decades since 1994. It’s a fascinating story but producers can’t seem to celebrate the diversity of the grape in the way they can Chenin Blanc.
“It makes muscular as well as elegant styles, and any sibling of Pinot Noir should be able to express itself elegantly and celebrated for that. I think there were divisions over Pinotage resulting in a lost opportunity, which if true is a bit disappointing for South Africa as a whole.”
It was also interesting to see, adds Johnson at Woodwinters, how many of what he describes as the “stale Stellenbosch brands” that are “now really trying to rejuvenate their reputation, either through slightly less clumsy winemaking or just more modern marketing”.
He adds: “There is still a market for big muscular oaky wines, but the tide is turning and I can see many of the wineries moving with the times. I saw a bit more concentration on Syrah which is making big strides in South Africa.”
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