A desire driven by curiosity, purpose and enthrallment with Sauvignon Blanc has seen Thys turn Diemersdal into something of a shrine for wines made from this variety, a place where the seemingly limitless potential and hidden secrets of Sauvignon Blanc are found in a startling array of wines.
The latest newbie is no stranger, in that it is a Diemersdal Eight Rows, a tried, trusted and adored wine on the local Sauvignon Blanc landscape. Yet, this latest release – only available in magnum – is the 2024 vintage that was left on the lees for 18 months prior to bottling, as opposed to the standard Eight Rows bottling’s six months. And what a wine it is, and what a difference a long lay on the lees makes.
This isn’t just a wine; it’s a disciplined, nuanced expression of the Cape’s most cherished variety, elevated by extended lees contact and an ode, perhaps, to the more contemplative, slow-burning traditions of fine winemaking found in France’s Loire or Burgundy, but with a distinctly South African soul.
From the moment this wine is poured, its pale gold hue shimmering with subtle confidence, the sense of purpose is unmistakable. A maritime whisper envelops the aroma: oyster shells, wet ocean rock, and a mineral freshness that immediately transports you to the cool, wind-buffeted slopes of the Durbanville terroir.
These vineyards, rooted in decomposed granite and clay soils, sit on south-facing slopes where proximity to the Atlantic imparts a signature salinity and mineral vibrancy. It’s a site of singular character, carefully cultivated through dryland farming, a method that, in my opinion, best captures and elevates the intrinsic qualities of Sauvignon Blanc in this cool, maritime climate.
The narrative of the Eight Rows is woven through history, beginning with Thys Louw’s humble yet ambitious start in 2005. Initially restricted to just eight rows of a single vineyard, Thys’s dedication proved that small can be significant. The first vintage in 2006 set a high bar, and decades later, this compact block remains the core of a wine that continues to evolve, revealing more layers each year.
To taste the 2024 in its extended lees-contact magnum is to witness the culmination of this meticulous stewardship, a wine that has matured into an elegant, complex icon, yet remains fiercely rooted in its site-specific essence.
It’s a testament to patience, an act of restraint in a world that often seeks instant gratification. This extended contact imbues the wine with a remarkable depth and a silky texture, integrating the vibrant acidity with a rounded, nectarine-infused palate that is simultaneously fresh and layered. Bottled unfiltered, the wine exudes a natural purity, its turbid, luminous presence a reflection of the vineyard’s pristine fruit and minimal intervention.
On the palate, the mineral core is immediately apparent. Flints and oceanic nuances set the tone for a lively yet refined experience. Touches of gooseberry, granadilla pips, kumquat, and persimmon evoke a tropical spectrum, but it’s the sea-salt finish – a surge of lemon zest and briny salinity – that truly captures the mood. Each sip feels like a gentle yet inexorable tide, ebbing and flowing with precision, evoking a coast where land and sea blend seamlessly. It’s a wine that commands attention without weight, embodying the spirit of modern restraint married to classical elegance.
In my view, the 2024 Eight Rows is more than a superb wine; it’s a statement. It challenges the notion that South African Sauvignon Blanc must be exuberant and fruit-forward; instead, it suggests that true elegance resides within a delicate balance of minerality, acidity, and subtle complexity. It bears the hallmark of a wine made with clarity, purpose, and respect for its origins and the provenance of one of the country’s great wine estates.
This article was originally published on Wine Goggle, Emile Joubert's blog.