Taaibosch Crescendo 2021, the Cabernet Franc-driven Bordeaux-style blend made in Stellenbosch’s Helderberg, continued its incredible run of success in the annual Tim Atkin MW report on South African wine by garnering 97 points in Atkin’s most recent precis on Cape Wine.
This rating for Crescendo 2021 follows on the 97 points achieved in the same report for the Crescendo 2018 – the wine’s maiden release – which led to 98pts for the 2019 vintage and 97pts for Taaibosch Crescendo 2020.
Not only was the Crescendo 2021 rated one of Atkin’s red Bordeaux blends of the year in this year’s report, but Taaibosch was confirmed a Second Growth Cape estate, as per the Master of Wine’s annual classification.
For this year’s Tim Atkin South Africa Special Report, Atkin tasted 2 000 South African wines, only 212 of which received a rating of 95pts and above.
A prelude to greatness: The composition and philosophy
Since its first release from the 2018 vintage, Taaibosch Crescendo has been seen as a testament to meticulous craftsmanship and a nuanced understanding of Stellenbosch Helderberg terroir. Elevation, ancient soils of decomposed granite and ideal levels of sunlight radiation are features of this winery’s distinctive vineyard site, which is also influenced by the maritime air-flows from the nearby Atlantic Ocean at False Bay.
The wine blend comprises Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon three varieties that, when harmonised, create a symphony of complexity, elegance, and depth. Schalk-Willem Joubert, Taaibosch winemaker, describes the 2021 vintage as “a year of refinement, nuance, and complexity,” highlighting the exceptional character that such conditions fostered.
The journey begins in the winery’s state-of-the-art cellar with a capacity of 400 tons and is a reflection of both winemaking ambition and precision. Hand-harvested grapes are carefully sorted and cooled in a cold room to preserve their integrity before being gently subjected to cold soaking. This slow maceration enhances the extraction of colour, aroma, and flavour compounds, setting the foundation for a wine of both vibrancy and finesse.
Following inoculated fermentation, the components are matured separately for 14 months in French oak barriques, of which 35% are new. This careful aging process allows each varietal to develop its unique character, with the French oak adding layers of spice and tannin structure that will ultimately integrate into the final blend.
The art of blending and maturation
Blending is a delicate art, one that Joubert approaches with patience, intuition and precision. Once the separate components reach optimal maturity, they are combined into a harmonious whole. The Crescendo 2021 was, as is always the case, led by Cabernet Franc, with the balance containing 31% Merlot and 17% Cabernet Sauvignon. The final blend then is transitioned into two distinct aging environments: 70% in wood foudré and the remaining 30% in concrete eggs. This dual approach champions complexity, texture, and a sense of freshness that pure barrel or stainless steel might not achieve alone.
The wine rests in these containers for a further year, during which its characters meld and evolve before being drawn off – yet the journey does not end there. The wine is then transferred to concrete for an additional three months to refine its maturation further. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, Crescendo is a true expression of purity, spending three to six months in bottle before its release. The result is a wine that exhibits structure, nuance, and elegance – an interplay between its fruit, acidity, and tannin.
The significance of the achievement
To receive 97 points from Tim Atkin MW is no small feat, especially for a relatively young wine release. It signifies more than just a high score; it underscores the potential of South African wines to stand alongside the world’s best. For Taaibosch, this recognition validates years of painstaking effort, attention to detail, and unwavering commitment to quality.
Joubert regards this accolade as a momentous milestone. “This Crescendo from the 2021 vintage embodies a year of elegance regal structure and the unashamed classic approach we have in our winemaking,” he remarks. “It is taut and disciplined, capturing the essence of all three varietal components within a unified, harmonious voice, one that speaks of Taaibosch, Helderberg, and the tradition of excellence we strive to uphold.”
Such praise lends global credence to the burgeoning reputation of South African Bordeaux-style wines and highlights the unique characteristics of the Helderberg terroir. It’s a triumphant validation that ages of meticulous vineyard management, innovative winemaking techniques, and a pure dedication to expressing terroir can elevate a wine to the highest echelons of quality.
Looking forward: Confidence and inspiration
For Taaibosch Wines, this is more than an accolade; it is a springboard for future excellence. “It encourages the team to uphold and refine their craft, knowing that their efforts resonate beyond local borders,” says Joubert.“Such recognition invariably attracts connoisseurs and collectors seeking wines that combine elegance, complexity, and rootedness in a distinctive terroir. And such recognition for only our fourth vintage is, said modestly, a stunning achievement.”
In the broader context, the success of Crescendo 2021 demonstrates the potent potential of South Africa’s Bordeaux reds, which embrace both tradition and innovation. It affirms that this country, with its expressive landscapes and diverse climates, can produce wines capable of rivalling the finest in the world.