Winegrowers on the Canary Islands fear the worst as phylloxera takes root

Thursday, 28 August, 2025
Wine Spectator, Greg Warner
The infamous root louse could imperil century-old vines and threaten unique local farming techniques.

One of the world’s most dreaded vineyard pests is threatening 500 years of traditional viticulture on the Canary Islands. Grapegrowers discovered the first-ever confirmed cases of phylloxera on the volcanic archipelago earlier this month. Vineyards in three towns on Tenerife, the largest and most populous of the islands, tested positive for the root louse, leaving winemakers and officials on edge as a response is organized.

The islands are a volcanic archipelago, located off the coast of Morocco and politically a part of Spain. Nearly all the islands’ vines grow on their own roots, which leaves them particularly susceptible to the deadly insect. Most Vitis vinifera vines are grafted onto American rootstocks, the only known method of growing winemaking grapes safely in afflicted areas. However, the Canaries’ volcanic soils, as well as the rapid response from its winemaking community and government, could offer reasons for hope.

The first sign of phylloxera was detected in late July on a private vineyard in Valle de Guerra, on Tenerife’s northern coast. The small town has been at the center of the outbreak, home to most of the confirmed cases, primarily in abandoned vineyards. The other two cases are in nearby towns, though these seem to be smaller and more isolated.

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