Three of South Africa’s top producers, Beyerskloof, Kaapzicht, and Kanonkop, came together in London to celebrate 100 years of Pinotage by hosting a very special masterclass. So with a whole century in the glass – what has Pinotage taught us? In short the wine has found its rhythm, but it’s not standing still. It is learning, adapting, and thriving. And at 100 years old, it's never been more dynamic. Joanna Dabrowska was there for The Buyer and has this report.
In 1925, a visionary South African viticulturist named Abraham Izak Perold crossed Pinot Noir with Cinsault (then locally called Hermitage) in the vineyards of Stellenbosch. What he created – Pinotage – was both a scientific curiosity and, eventually, a cornerstone of South African wine identity. One hundred years later, that cross is being celebrated not just as a cultural milestone, but as a variety that has evolved with immense character, quality, and complexity.
More than a grape
Pinotage is more than a crossing or a curiosity, it has grown into a cultural statement. Once dismissed as rustic or uneven, it has evolved into one of the most expressive, age-worthy varieties in the New World. Thanks to the tireless work of passionate producers and the Pinotage Association, founded in 1995, the grape has gone from underdog status to icon.
The Association has championed innovation, education, and quality for nearly three decades, and its current focus is nothing short of ambitious: developing a Grand Cru-style classification for Pinotage. This structured approach would help codify the most exceptional sites and producers, elevating Pinotage’s global reputation and bringing well-deserved clarity to consumers and collectors alike.
What’s even more exciting is the spirit of collaboration now flourishing in the South African wine industry. From shared knowledge to regional cooperation, winemakers are working together rather than competing in silos. It's a shift that reflects maturity (not just of the wines) but of the industry itself. And as someone watching this from both inside and outside, I must say: it’s a joy to witness.
Of course, Pinotage still presents challenges. One of the most critical is its narrow picking window. Unlike Cabernet Sauvignon, which offers some flexibility, Pinotage ripens fast and must be picked within just 2-3 days at optimal maturity. Miss it, and you risk over-ripeness and loss of freshness. This demands precision in the vineyard, fast decision-making, and close attention to detail.
Another ongoing challenge is vineyard architecture in a warming climate. In the 1990s, many producers transitioned from traditional bush vines to trellised systems, aiming for higher yields and easier canopy management. But in water-scarce regions like Stellenbosch, this change backfired. Trellised vines demand significantly more water – a resource increasingly under pressure.
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