We heard for decades that China is red wine country. That red wine denotes status, is associated with health benefits and is a lucky color, and thus dominated among both importers and local producers.
That gave white wine brands pause, especially as alongside their supposed inferiority in terms of status, health and luck, white wines tend to be chilled. Cold drinks have tended to be a cultural no-no in China, due to beliefs that hot beverages are better for one's "qi" or "vital energy" and to a history where boiling water made it safe to drink.
So, how to explain the gap between such cultural norms and the current rise of white wines?
In short, China is a complex place, with diverse cuisines, climates, income levels and generational tastes. And when you have a billion-plus people, the exceptions to a cultural rule can equal the population of a mid-sized nation.
This is something other beverages sectors have learned, sometimes the hard way.
Coffee in tea country
Take coffee. Some pundits once proclaimed prospects were poor for this pick-me-up given China is the tea-drinking nation of tea-drinking nations.
Yet Starbucks had 7700 stores in mainland China at the end of 2024, up 700 from 2023, with revenue of USD750 million. Luckin' Coffee has even more outlets and we also find no shortage of independent cafés and coffee festivals.
"China is now the world's sixth-largest coffee market and it is growing fast," says Stuart Eunson of Beijing-based Arabica Roasters. When Eunson began his business in 1995, Beijing had just two retail venues selling coffee. Now choice is the rule.
"There is nothing that millennials and later generations don't drink."
That includes cold products.
"Iced coffee is huge here," he says. "People drink it all year round."
China's cocktail hour
Also take cocktails. Finding a decent Martini or Manhattan in Beijing was once difficult but proficient mixology is now widespread nationwide. Most of those drinks are chilled.
"Generally speaking, in Guangdong, guests are pretty okay with cold and ice," says Bastien Ciocca, co-owner of Hope & Sesame in Guangzhou and Shenzhen, one of Asia's most highly touted bars.
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