Is older better? ‘Not if you’re human,’ according to Doug Frost MW MS. On the other hand, the multisuffixed expert suggested that vines benefit from some age to deliver the best wines and a better expressed terroir.
Frost was leading a tasting titled ‘Is older better?’, one of multiple sessions held during this year’s edition of Barcelona Wine Week to explore the meaning and importance of old vines, both from a symbolic and winemaking point of view. Other masterclasses included ‘Old Vines – Beyond Beauty’, moderated by Fernando Mora MW and ‘Pre-phylloxera vines, the indelible heritage’, moderated by Ruth Troyano.
Living narrative
The common thread and foremost conclusion, across sessions, was that beyond the impact on taste (more on that below), the attention paid to old vines is fundamentally about social, economic and cultural sustainability.
The fact that so many vineyards were, throughout the 20th century, replaced by higher-yielding varieties has had a deep impact on the potential of commercial differentiation and the climate resilience of many regions. Ironically, and with an almost tragic lack of strategic foresight, decisions made with volume and commercial aggressiveness in mind have limited the potential for singularity and competitive market placement.
As part of the panel discussing pre-phylloxera plantings, Elisa Ludeña, winemaker at Canary Island’s winery El Grifo, described the study of old vines as an ‘archaeology of wine’, unveiling social and economic information, as much as viticultural. And Ludeña pointed out that by looking at the past, and understanding the viticultural lineage of a place, winemakers and regions are better placed to face the challenges of the future.
Click HERE to read the full article.