Overview: Earth, wind and fire!
As we gather the fruits of our labour at Oldenburg Vineyards, we reflect on the holistic approach that has nurtured our vines throughout the year. Our commitment to soil health, biodiversity, and ecosystem resilience will manifest positively in every grape we pick. It's a time to honour the intricate balance between human intervention and Nature's wisdom, and we hope our wines express this harmonious relationship.
With each day passing in the lead-up to harvest, there is a growing sense of anticipation. We have had a fantastic growing season, with very little rain, similar to last year, and not much excessive heat. We also know that the risk of negative surprises only dissipates when the grapes are in the cellar. At the end of January, the wind played its hand, swung to an easterly, and blew hard. Several blocks lost significant amounts of grapes and, in some cases, whole bunches. As I've said many times, the wind is generally our friend. It plays a valuable role in cooling and disease pressure reduction. So, as with this sort of thing, one must understand that we are farming and nature's whims are its own.
By mid-February, the white grapes were rapidly entering the cellar. Nic and Christo were both thrilled by their quality. Small parcels were even coming off some of our very young blocks, which added to their excitement as this will be the first time we can assess their quality and unique flavour profiles. The cool nights have generally persisted. With early morning small batch pickings combined with diligent use of the cool room, we are keeping the cold chain intact and, with that, the freshness, which is such a strong feature of our mountain vineyards.
Nic has also decided to amp up his chemistry methods this year and is using hyperoxidation, which he believes helps him capture the flavour profiles of Chardonnay that he likes best. Ultimately, it is a natural process. Nic thinks it will help with the stability of the wine and help to lower unwanted phenol aromatics. It also allows reduced use of sulphur and has the added benefit of assisting the ability of the natural yeast fermentations by making the yeasts more resilient. Please see further details on some of Nic's wine craft magic in the Point of View segment.
With everything now proceeding well, the obvious question came up: What could possibly go wrong? Fire! With another bone-dry summer underway, the ability for fires to take hold has a low bar. The Banghoek Valley was hit mid-month by a fire that destroyed large swathes of the valley’s natural bush. Nic, Christo, and much of the farm team assisted the emergency fire response teams, who did a miraculous job preventing mass destruction. We have kept the margins of the farm cleared, and our firebreak management is as with everything on the farm – managed with precision and saved us from any possible catastrophe. We are thankful to the firefighters and helicopter teams, and bravo to our team for excellent farm management and firefighting efforts.
After six years at Oldenburg Vineyards, Stefan served his final month as private client sommelier. Stefan played an important role in making our Tasting Room what it is today. However, I share his thoughts that diversity of experience in one's career is important and promotes growth. At this juncture, we wish Stefan the best of luck in his future endeavours.
We are pleased to introduce Delaille Raubenheimer as our new private client sommelier in her role as brand and direct sales manager. Delaille started her career with a degree in Oenology and Viticulture from Stellenbosch and gained a broad array of experience across the wine industry. Given our collective passion for wine, we are excited to welcome her to the team and introduce her to you, our clients.
With a few more weeks of our harvest to come, we remain excited. The connection with the earth that harvest brings could be best summed up by tasting one of the berries as it crosses the sorting table – ripe, sweet, and just an absolute pleasure – or by tasting the first juice from the tank pre-fermentation – again, gorgeous! The grapes and the juice are the nexus between the barren earth in the vineyards, baked by the summer sun and battered by the winds. Yet, nonetheless, we have these magical tastes, which will soon become wines.
Review: Syrah 2017
This month, we turn our focus to the library release of the 2017 vintage of Oldenburg Vineyards Syrah. This wine takes us almost a decade back in time, to a vintage that was shaped by a dry and cool growing season. These conditions resulted in lower yields with notably smaller berries, which has a positive outcome on the concentration of aromas and flavours within the grape. This has ultimately contributed to the depth of the wine.
From its initial release to the present, this Syrah has displayed an impressive richness, offering layers of dark fruit-mulberries, blackcurrant, and bramble – complemented by gentle notes of mocha, subtle spice and a delicate undertone of liquorice and white pepper. A wine that will continue to evolve and unfold in the years to come.
At its ideal serving temperature range of 15-17ºC, the Oldenburg Vineyards Syrah 2017 pairs beautifully with various dishes that complement its richness and depth. Whether it is a slow-braised lamb shank, duck breast with cherry and red wine jus, or a vegetarian mushroom risotto with a slight touch of truffle oil – this wine’s complexity will enhance an array of dishes.
For collectors eager to secure a case of the highly coveted 2017 vintage at R750 per bottle, our new private client sommelier, Delaille Raubenheimer, is here to personally assist with your acquisition.
Point of view: Hyperoxidation and Black Chardonnay
With the arrival of freshly harvested white grapes in the cellar, we catch up with winemaker Nic van Aarde to explore the fascinating process these grapes will undergo this year.
One technique used for white wines is a lesser-known Burgundian method known as Black Chardonnay, which involves the hyperoxidation of the juice before fermentation.
But why introduce oxygen to this precious juice?
Oxygen has shaped winemaking for centuries. Yet, in recent years, conventional methodology has suggested gently pressing Chardonnay and shielding it from oxygen with carbon dioxide and sulphur dioxide. However, as with many forgotten practices, revisiting old techniques often reveals wisdom that surpasses today’s methods. One such example is hyperoxidation, a technique that challenges modern norms by embracing oxygen in the process.
Nic explains that once the grapes arrive in the cellar, they undergo meticulous sorting before being pressed with deliberate exposure to air, without adding of sulphites. As a result, the juice turns dark brown and almost black – hence the term "Black Chardonnay". This process is similar to how an apple browns after being cut.
The aim is to drop out the maximum amount of phenolics – the natural compounds in the skins and seeds. At this point, the magic occurs: The dark juice (must) is transferred into tanks, where these natural compounds react with oxygen and begin to settle out of suspension. This reaction removes the dark colour, leaving behind a clear, golden juice.
The result is the stabilisation of these delicate compounds. Consequently, the need for chemical intervention is reduced, and there is less reliance on sulphur, leading to a purer expression of terroir. Enhanced stability also improves the wine’s ageing potential.
And so, the goal is attained: yielding wines with structure, ageability, and a sense of place. This process showcases the delicate balance between human ingenuity and nature in the pursuit of the exceptional.
Bird's eye view: Library and vertical tastings
Vertical Tasting: Chenin Blanc
Experience the transformation of South Africa’s most celebrated and widely planted grape variety, proving that white wines can age beautifully. Delight your palate with the exceptional evolution of Chenin Blanc through the 2015, 2018, 2019 and 2023 vintages.
Cost: R600 per person
Library Tasting: Cabernet Sauvignon
Discover the depth and evolution of cool-climate Cabernet Sauvignon as you compare its ageing potential and performance across vintages and tiers. Savour the distinction between the Per Se Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 and 2019 and the Oldenburg Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 and 2019.
Cost: R700 per person
All Library and Vertical tastings are strictly by appointment only. Tastings include our complimentary snack platter consisting of olives, cheese, and olive oil crackers.
Book your visit to Oldenburg via thetastingroom@oldenburgvineyards.com or call 021 8851618.