This article is an update on Petri de Beer's article Uncut gems: Indigenous South African wine grape cultivars. He looks at the indigenous varieties' potential and the producers that have embraced them.
Although there aren't many hectares of indigenous grapes grown, a small market is emerging – driven by consumers longing for a sense of place and authenticity. Awareness of indigenous South African wine grape cultivars is growing. It's not enough to merely talk about having a true sense of place or offering something uniquely South African that can stand up to the best wines in the world – we must also walk the walk.
So, who are the mavericks and visionaries in the industry who have seen what Pinotage has achieved and asked how they can build on the shoulders of giants like Beyers Truter and Professor Christiaan Orffer? The pioneers who dared to ask why we look abroad for the future of the South African wine industry, rather than forging our own path.
The few who aimed to signal to the world that we do not need to rely on old-world cultivars as the standard for premium wine, but can produce world-class wines from cultivars bred for South African conditions by people with an intimate knowledge and love for our industry.
These producers have fixed their sights on their North Star. Their commitment to our unique cultivars and unwavering belief in the potential of our terroir to demonstrate the true path forward for our industry.
By continuing to cultivate and promote these indigenous varieties, we can showcase the distinctiveness and excellence of South African wines on the global stage.
Nouvelle
If you want to talk about Nouvelle, you have to speak to Pierre Rabie from Koueberg. Sourced from a small vineyard in the Cape South Coast, it's surprising to find Nouvelle planted in the heart of Chardonnay country. Pierre’s experience with Nouvelle is enlightening.
As he puts it, "Do not assume that Nouvelle's ability to produce big yields is where you will get the best out of the wine. High-yielding Nouvelle produces a lighter, slightly green wine with flavours of green apple and green peppers. If you really want to see something unique and special, control the yield a bit to achieve higher sugars and allow it to ripen more on the vine. Nouvelle possesses adequate acidity, so there is no need to worry about it becoming flat and flabby. Give it some aging in a barrel, and you will end up with a wine that has excellent aging ability and develops a distinctive bubblegum flavour, thanks to the high levels of terpenes inherited from its Crouchen Blanc parentage. Once you have tasted Nouvelle's unique character, you will never forget it."
When managed correctly, there is great potential for Nouvelle to become a premium wine grape varietal in South Africa. It is capable of producing fresh and elegant wines, even in warm climates and with high sugar levels. Pierre’s insights highlight the importance of precise vineyard management to unlock the full potential of Nouvelle, to make it a valuable addition to the South African wine industry.
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Koueberg Altydvygie Nouvelle
An endless field of grassy tones, an exotic, indigenous experience in every tantalising glass.
Tasting notes: South Africa's own white cultivar developed in 1964 by the late professor Chris Orffer. Nouvelle’s parents are Crouchen Blanc (Cape Riesling) and Ugni Blanc. This barrel fermented wine proliferates flavours of green apple and capsicum that end in a springbuck pronk and greasy bubblegum finish.
Suggested pairings: Apple crumble, pulled pork, sushi.
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Roobernet
Nestled near the hamlet of Buffelsjagsrivier against the Breede River, Olivedale is headed by Carl van Wijk. He is a true rebel and arguably the biggest proponent of Roobernet as a cultivar in South Africa. Carl's journey with Roobernet began one day while walking through the cellar, past a tank of Roobernet that was then fulfilling its traditional role as a blending component – known in the industry as the "ink" for red wine. Suddenly, a thought occurred to him: "Why should Roobernet only be used to help and prop up red wines and Cabernet Sauvignons that are unable to stand on their own? If it is good enough to enhance those wines, it is more than good enough to stand on its own as a cultivar wine." And so, Olivedale Roobernet was born.
Due to its teinturier characteristics, Roobernet is naturally a vibrant wine, but if handled too harshly, it can become frank and tannic. Carl describes Roobernet as a joyful woman dancing carefree in a flowered dress – vibrant and jovial, with soft edges and finesse. Roobernet can provide good quality and full-bodied wines even at high yields, making it tailormade for the South African industry. Carl believes that there is a great future for Roobernet in South Africa and has made it his mission to educate and expose local wine drinkers to the cultivar.
Roobernet is also the only local cultivar that has increased in hectare plantings over the last decade, even when Pinotage is included. With these new plantings, the hope is that other producers will realise the potential of Roobernet, not just as a support for lesser red wines, but as a standout wine in its own right.
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Olivedale Mystery of Nature Roobernet
The romance of the aroma and the wonderful softness in taste of the wine can only come from creative, alternative thinking. This wine tells a story of the philosophy of who Olivedale is. Fresh mountain water on virgin soil and unspoiled and healthy microbes makes the perfect medium for this alternative wine.
Olivedale has unique Mediterranean summer days and cooler nights. Constantly 50% lower temperatures during the night as during the day.
Winemaking: Picked in 10kg lug boxes in March, the grapes were hand-sorted and destemmed and crushed. Cold macerated for 3days at low temperature of 10ºC until natural fermentation starts, and a CO2 blanket protects the juice. Grapes is then pressed into 500 and 600lt 3rd fill barrels to finish its first and second fermentation. Racked from its lees and returned to barrel for aging.
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Therona
The story of Stellenbosch Vineyards' Therona began as a conversation in a bakkie between a young and then inexperienced winemaker, myself, Petri de Beer, and one of the seasoned veterans of the Stellenbosch region. When I asked Francois de Villiers, the longtime viticulturist at Stellenbosch Vineyards, about the intriguing local cultivars taught to us students by Prof. Goussard at Stellenbosch and why they weren't more prevalent in the industry, little did I know I was speaking to one of the few people with hands-on experience with these cultivars. Francois had been part of the cultivar evaluation team at the ARC in the 1970s when these cultivars were evaluated.
After extensive research and under the tutelage of cellarmaster Bernard Claassen, who was willing to support this unconventional idea, the first Therona wine at Stellenbosch Vineyards was produced.
Made from the only row of Therona in the entire Stellenbosch wine-growing region, Therona offers good acidity even in warmer areas and under water-stressed conditions while still being able to produce high sugar levels. It is a versatile cultivar that can produce quality wines at both low and high sugar levels. When harvested earlier, it leans into a more mineral character with notes of lime and citrus. When harvested later, it can produce fuller wines that integrate well with wood, bringing out notes of pear and vanilla.
Since its inception at Stellenbosch Vineyards, Therona has become an integral part of the limited release range at Stellenbosch Vineyards and is still cared for under the watchful eye of cellarmaster Bernard Claassen. Its versatility and resilience make it an excellent choice for producing high-quality wines in various wine-growing regions, showcasing its great potential for growth within the industry.
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Stellenbosch Vineyards Therona
Winemaker’s comments: Grown in the South African climate, Therona offers a great quality wine – even in very dry and warm conditions. It produces a aromatic wine that delivers a floral bouquet permeated by flavours of peach and green apple, with a hint of vanilla on a well-rounded palate.
Maturation potential: The wine can be enjoyed now, but will benefit from bottle aging for three to five years.
Food pairing: This wine will pair well with most fish or poultry and is an ideal match for spicy curries. Serve at a cool room temperature.
Suitable for vegans.
Chemical analysis:
Alcohol: 13.61%
Residual sugar: 1.9 g/l
Total acidity: 5.7 g/l
pH: 3.37
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Chenel
Johst Weber of Springfontein Wine Estate embarked on an ambitious venture. He decided to cultivate wine between the Walker Bay dunes on the small islands of limestone that make up the estate. After extensive experimentation and numerous disappointments, something extraordinary occurred. Where so many other cultivars had failed, the little-known local cultivar Chenel not only survived the challenging conditions but actually thrived.
Such is the belief in the potential that Chenel holds for the wine industry, and the contributions it has already made to Springfontein, that Chenel's official 50th birthday party was celebrated at Springfontein in late 2024.
Chenel's high disease resistance and the quality of wines it produces on limestone soils make it an exemplary example of the potential our local cultivars possess to produce premium wines. Chenel has a more subdued and neutral flavour profile, making it an excellent vehicle to express the terroir in which it's grown. The Springfontein team strongly believes and can attest through personal experience that Chenel would make an excellent addition to any farm in our cooler wine-growing regions. It is a good alternative to the Bordeaux and Burgundy white wine cultivars currently produced in these areas.
The success of Chenel at Springfontein illustrates the untapped potential of local cultivars. It demonstrates that, with the right conditions and care, they can produce exceptional wines that express the unique characteristics of their environment.
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Springfontein Terroir Selection Chenel
Tasting notes: This Chenel is true to the terroir characterized by cool climate and limestone soils. It has apple and peach notes on the nose, minerality and soft acidity on the palate. The oak aromas are well integrated and very subtle on the taste.
Chemical analysis:
Alcohol: 13,0 %
Residual Sugar: 3,0 g/l
pH: 3,4
Total Acidity: 4,8 g/l
Total Extract: 21,7 g/l
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Grachen
Currently, the only commercial plantings of Grachen are at Merwida Family Wines, where it is an integral part of their blending regime. Magnus Kriel, cellarmaster at Merwida, notes that the high levels of pyrazine in Grachen, which give it a distinctive green grass flavour, help to uplift and freshen any blend it is added to. This characteristic can be particularly beneficial in Sauvignon Blanc blends, helping to achieve a balanced profile. Previously considered a negative trait, being phenolically ripe at lower sugar levels has become advantageous in recent years with the trend towards lower alcohol wines that still maintain a full, ripe flavour.
However, the future of Grachen in South Africa faces challenges. As a cultivar, it is more susceptible to bunch rot and sunburn, imposing restrictions on the regions where it can optimally perform. Despite these challenges, the unique attributes of Grachen and its potential to enhance wine blends make it a valuable variety for the industry. Continued research and careful management practices are essential to maximise its benefits and address its vulnerabilities.
Weldra
Weldra is considered a lost cultivar, with no current commercial plantings remaining. The only material still available is preserved in the Vititec plant material library to prevent its complete disappearance and to keep the possibility of its revival alive.
There are only vague memories of Weldra's characteristics among seasoned producers. The late, great Professor Goussard noted that Weldra produced wines with a more subdued, neutral character and a high, tight acidity. This made it well-suited for producing Rabat wines for brandy. However, according to distilling master Johan Venter, it was never aged as a cultivar brandy and its contribution to our premium brandies remain unknown.
Honourable mention: Sémillon Gris
An honourable mention must be given to Sémillon Gris, a mutation of Sémillon that occurred long ago in South Africa as a response to the harsher climate compared to that of France. Seen by old-timers as a hardier alternative to Sémillon and once widely accepted as a unique cultivar, it fell out of favour in later years, being seen as not "real" Sémillon.
However, it is now seeing a resurgence, with producers like Thorne and Daughters leading the charge by producing a more intense wine with added notes of dried fruit and green herbs. The colouring in its skin helps to make it more resilient to UV radiation damage, enabling the production of "Sémillon" in warmer climates.
Currently, efforts are underway to decode the genome of South Africa’s Sémillon Gris to confirm that it is indeed a distinct cultivar and to recognise it among South Africa’s other indigenous cultivars. This endeavor aims to preserve and promote the unique characteristics of Sémillon Gris, ensuring its continued contribution to the diversity and richness of the South African wine industry.
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Thorne & Daughters Tin Soldier Sémillon
Tin Soldier is a skin-fermented wine made from Sémillon Gris. The vineyard has been established from a sélection massale of Sémillon Gris cuttings taken from an adjacent vineyard of Sémillon that was planted in 1963.
The colour of the wine is unusual, having taken some bright copper tones from about a week’s fermentation on skins. The wine shows aromas of ripe apricot, Thai basil, nutmeg and toasted pistachio, redolent of baklava. The interplay between savoury and sweet is a key point of interest in Tin Soldier, and makes for a subtle and engaging wine. The wine shows complex aromas of gingerbread, tangerine rind, dried apricots and rust. The palate has apples, créme caramel and orange cake while being dry and grippy, the tannins recalling quince and rooibos tea.
Chemical analysis:
Alcohol: 13.38%
Residual sugar: 2.5 g/L
Total acidity: 6.7 g/L
pH: 3.19
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