Oldenburg Vineyards Views October 2024: Adaptation in the vineyards

Thursday, 31 October, 2024
Oldenburg Vineyards
Adrian Vanderspuy of Oldenburg on his fascination with nature's ability to adapt, the soon-to-be-released Una V Rondekop Chardonnay, and more.

  

Overview: Adaptation

Spring continues apace, and as we transitioned from September to October, a few warmer days set everything into hyperdrive. The entire Oldenburg farm was ablaze in fluorescent shades of lime green – a truly spectacular sight! With the farm now fully planted, the vineyard team, with their unwavering dedication, is racing to keep ahead of the relentless growth; in fact, a few weekend sessions were required to keep on top of suckering - the early removal of unwanted leaf and shoot growth on our canopies.

Rondekop has rarely looked so beautiful, as our cover crops – in some cases about two metres high – add to the green glow. The view from The Tasting Room displays the fynbos garden, currently graced with golden flowers, spring has sprung, and it is stunning!

On one of my morning walks around Rondekop, I met Christo, who broke the news of budding issues with some of the vineyard blocks, caused by last year’s wind. The intense winds, particularly on the new south side Syrah block, had caused the vines to produce tendrils where there should have been bunches. On the bunches, they were missing what we call "shoulders", making them much smaller than they should be. After some research, I discovered that this was a process called Thigmomorphogenesis – which refers to the response of the vine to mechanical stimuli, such as wind and leads to changes in the growth pattern of the plant. In this case, an adaptation to form tendrils that may help it latch on to something to steady the vine in the wind. This was a new one for me, and when I explained to Vanessa that the crop would be dramatically reduced, her response was, "Well, this is farming!" Indeed! Certainly fascinating.

On an exciting note, Nic has been finalising the 2023 vintage red wines, which require several months of tasting and blending experimentation. He is now readying the final blends for bottling. After sampling each of them with him, it is clear we will produce some excellent wines; they will be bottled in late November then rest quietly in our cellar for a few years before release.

Over the past few months, we have been conducting an en primeur release of the Una V Rondekop Chardonnay 2023. Its official release will be on 1 of November in the Tasting Room. Una V is a unique wine that carries my late grandmother's name. She played a role in the Oldenburg Vineyards’ story for many reasons, primarily, her inspiration to treat our vineyards as a garden and each vine as an element of that garden. Please see the ReView section and watch the video to hear more.

I am genuinely fascinated by how nature works, and witnessing its ability to adapt up close is a great pleasure. I have learnt that "rolling with it" takes you to better places – hard to describe but exciting and satisfying.

Bringing it back to the wines, they encapsulate what nature does best. We have influence and custodianship, but it is nature that we must thank.

  

Review: Una V Rondekop Chardonnay 2023

1 November sees the anticipated release of the maiden vintage Una V Rondekop Chardonnay 2023.

The wine is a tribute to Una Van der Spuy, Adrian’s grandmother and iconic gardener. It symbolises a love of plants, a spirit of learning and adaptation, an appreciation for the Cape’s natural beauty, and above all, recognition of a vibrant, ambitious woman.

Crafted from Clone 95 grapes, renowned for their Burgundian quality, the Una V is a single-vineyard Chardonnay planted in 70% rocky soils – imparting a distinct mineral character to the wine. After hand-sorting, the grapes are whole-bunch pressed, and the juice undergoes natural fermentation over six months.

Aged for 10 months in Burgundian oak barrels, with 25% new oak, the wine achieves a beautiful depth and complexity.

The Una V 2023 enjoys a stunning bouquet of green pineapple, clementine, chamomile, and almond, with subtle notes of jasmine and flint. The palate reveals vibrant lime slices, enhanced by delicate hints of crème brûlée and green melon, offering a lush mouthfeel. The wine’s lively acidity ensures a fresh and long-lasting finish, while its structure promises graceful ageing over the next decade.

Priced at R950, this Chardonnay embodies elegance and finesse.

Point of view: Early-stage canopy management

The days are getting longer, the sunshine warmer, and the vineyards are a spectacular vibrant green. Before the fruit begins to set on the vine, there are a few more vital processes the vineyard team must tend to.

Canopy (leaves, shoots and, later, fruit) management is practiced for a number of reasons, including improving fruit quality, yield and reducing the risk of disease. Once budbreak occurs and the vines and leaves begin growing, one of the first steps of canopy management is suckering.

Suckering refers to the removal of non-bearing shoots (i.e. shoots that will not carry fruit) to lower growth pressure on the vine. This is important because the plant needs to focus all of its energy into producing the best fruit.

Christo and the team started with early suckering on the Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Merlot blocks, with late suckering planned for the Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah vines (these have particularly high vigour). Late suckering will reduce the vigour in these blocks, in turn, improving fruit quality.

Another part of canopy management is known as tipping. This involves removing the growth point (the tip) of vines that are growing too fast. Tipping temporarily stunts the strong shoot, allowing for more even growth throughout the block.

When the early-stage canopy management is complete, the vines are set to thrive into their full summer splendour, and the anticipation of seeing the first fully ripe berries begins.

Bird's eye view: Library and vertical tastings in November 2024

Library Tasting: White wine experience

A fascinating side-by-side comparison of two versatile and widely loved white wines, each with its own distinct character and history. This tasting highlights the dynamic range of both Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay, allowing you to explore how each variety responds to different winemaking techniques, climates, and terroirs of our unique site.

Cost: R600 per person

Vertical Tasting: Cabernet Franc

Experience the elegance of Cabernet Franc with its signature herbal notes and vibrant red fruit profile in this exclusive vertical tasting. Delve into select vintages – 2017, 2015 (Magnum 1.5L), 2014, and 2012 – and discover how each vintage’s climate, winemaking choices, and ageing process shape the distinct character of this variety.

Cost: R600 per person

All library and vertical tastings are strictly by appointment, only. Tastings include our complimentary snack platter consisting of olives, cheese, and crackers.

Book your visit to Oldenburg via thetastingroom@oldenburgvineyards.com or call 021 8851618.