The recent release of Tim Atkin MW's South Africa Special Report highlights a recurrent theme: some of the humblest winemakers, those least interested in the spotlight, are often the most talented, driven purely by passion. Gyles Webb, founder of Thelema and one of the first revolutionary winemakers of the 1990s, exemplifies this humility despite his impressive achievements. As his son, Thomas Webb, says, "Gyles is first a farmer, a vine grower, and then a winemaker... Gyles is the artist."
As part of my Elgin Living Legend series, I wanted to understand why an iconic Stellenbosch wine brand also chose to farm in Elgin. After meeting Gyles, I realised I had only scratched the surface of his story. It wasn't until we toured the vineyards that I saw a transformation in Gyles – a deep connection and passion for the land that became more apparent than during the more formal interview. I therefore arranged a follow-up interview with his son, Thomas, whose pride in and respect for his father’s work were both moving and contagious.
The first taste of wine
Thomas gave a beautiful definition of wine, which may be exactly what enticed his father when he took his first sip. "Wine is a unique, beautiful thing – perfect in its imperfection." Gyles’s path as an accountant took an unexpected turn when his brother-in-law introduced him to his first foreign wine, the golden nectar of Puligny-Montrachet, a white Burgundy that completely changed his world. This singular experience ignited his passion to learn more.
In the early 1970s, quality dry white wines were rare in South Africa. Though Gyles completed his accounting degree, he pursued an oenology degree from Stellenbosch. He began buying and tasting wines, immersing himself in research. Fortunately, the favourable exchange rate at the time – 7 Francs to 1 Rand – allowed him to sample a wide range of wines. As Thomas explained, Gyles's success lies in his dedication to immersion: study, research, learn, and taste – again and again.
Gyles's defining trait is his relentless curiosity. When something captures his interest, he fully immerses himself. As Thomas puts it, "If you catch him in the right context, he blossoms." This dedication extends beyond winemaking to everything Gyles pursues, from baking bread to cooking and even music.
A pioneer in South Africa's wine industry, Gyles expanded his knowledge of international wines, becoming an avid collector with a discerning palate, remarkable memory, and astute tasting skills. His generosity with his collection is legendary – he shares his wines with the next generation of winemakers, ensuring they, too, can experience wines that have become increasingly difficult to afford, especially Burgundies.
It's all about the vineyards
"Wine is made in the vineyard" is a well-known saying, but at Thelema and Sutherland, this is truly at the core of their philosophy. However, this wasn’t always widely recognised, as wines were often crafted to suit palates rather than express the purity of the site. From the beginning of his wine journey, Gyles envisioned owning his own property, a dream realised with the purchase of Thelema, made possible with the support of his wife Barbara’s family. In the early 1990s, thanks to Gyles's focus and hard work, Thelema consistently produced some of the best vineyards in Stellenbosch.
Gyles’s passion for cool-climate wines and high-quality grapes led him, in 2002, to acquire Sutherland in Elgin, previously an apple farm. For Gyles, growing his own grapes from the right site was non-negotiable. He is deeply committed to understanding the land, farming, and experimentation. His approach prioritises farming well first, focusing on healthy, virus-free vines. His farming method, which Thomas describes as "benign neglect approach to viticulture", is rooted in common sense and holistic practices. "It is harder to farm in Elgin compared to Stellenbosch," Gyles described, everything is so different – at the age of 77, he still visits Sutherland weekly to keep learning and get the best out of the site.
Thelema/Sutherland's unique wine style
Gyles’s wines are not made for critics. Instead, they reflect the unique characteristics of their vineyards and are crafted to please his own palate. Thelema and Sutherland wines are not meant to be compared. His wines are designed to be distinctive, with personalities, that age gracefully.
Thelema has come a long way. In 1994, it became one of the first South African wineries to receive international acclaim, making Decanter’s Top 100 list. Yet for Gyles, it has never been about chasing trends. His philosophy is to create "critically interesting" wines – wines that focus on substance rather than hype and that retain their character in a world where wine has often been commodified and oversimplified. As Thomas says, "We’re not trying to make a nice wine but an interesting wine."
Gyles reminds me of Eben Sadie in many ways. Incidentally, Gyles gave Eben one of his first jobs as winemaker for Spice Route, marking the beginning of Eben’s journey in the Swartland. Both men are philosophical, well-read, artists in their own ways, and unwilling to suffer fools.