Heritage Month: The interesting histories of 4 iconic Cape wine farms

Monday, 9 September, 2024
Tamlyn Ryan
This Heritage Month, we reflect on the histories of 4 local wine farms that have shaped the Cape as we know it today.

Our beautiful Cape wine farms are blessed with a rich Cape history. And this September, as we celebrate Heritage Month in South Africa, we reflect on four wine farms – from Somerset West to Constantia – that have shaped the Western Cape province.

Vergelegen: Cape heritage, historic gardens and 300+ years of history

Founded on 1 February 1700 (and with over 300 years’ worth of history), Vergelegen (which translates to “situated far away”) is surely one of the Cape’s most historic estates. Over the years, some of the world’s great visionaries and explorers have owned Vergelegen and they have all helped mould it into a world-class estate.

When we think of Vergelegen today, we know it for its award-winning wines, rich history, cultural heritage, stunning gardens, and fine cuisine. It’s a place where vast trees loom and a labyrinth of garden pathways leave visitors in awe. And yet, Vergelegen is so much more.

In 1700, Willem Adriaan, Simon van der Stel’s son, succeeded his father as governor of the Cape and took the “modest” 30 000 hectare piece of land, on which Vergelegen was situated, for himself.

Six years later, Willem Adriaan had accumulated half a million in vine stocks. He also added fruit orchards, orange groves, camphor and oak trees; established vast cattle stations; and built reservoirs and canals. He also built the beautiful Cape Dutch homestead, as well as a corn mill and other buildings besides. However, it soon became apparent that Willem Adriaan was guilty of corrupt practices when he was ordered to return to the Netherlands in October 1706.

In 1709, the estate was sold and divided into four separate farms. These included Vergelegen, Lourensford, Morgenster, and Cloetenburg (which today houses Somerset House School).

From then, the estate went through a series of owners until 1798, when the Theunissen family took ownership until 1899. Under their guardianship, Vergelegen’s vineyards truly flourished.

From 1917 to 1941, the estate entered the Phillips era, when Sir Lionel Phillips bought the property for his wife, Lady Florence, who transformed the then-rundown estate into a cultural and floral treasure. While farming took a backseat under their tenure, the Phillips family spent a great deal of money restoring and bettering the estate. (In that time, while shaping the estate, Lady Florence opened her newly restored home to people from all walks of life, among them creatives, such as Irma Stern and Francis Brett-Young.)

From 1941 to 1987, the estate entered the Barlow era and, like Lady Florence before her, Cynthia Barlow added many beautiful treasures to Vergelegen while maintaining it. What’s more, the Barlow family resumed farming operations as, aside from their vast Jersey cattle herd, they replanted vines and added extensive peach orchards.

From 1987 till now, the estate has remained under the ownership of Anglo American. Over the years, their projects have included clearing invasive vegetation, land rehabilitation, taking the estate completely off the grid, and restoring the estate’s historic roots. These efforts have resulted in Vergelegen being awarded with its WWF Conservation Champion status. Another important aspect of the Anglo American Era has been restoring the estate’s heritage and honouring its past, including the former slaves who tended the land.

In 2019, the estate (a favourite among many famous dignitaries and celebrities over the years) was added as a provincial heritage site.

Like many estates, Vergelegen may have a rich, complicated history but I’ve always admired how, rather than run from or try to hide it, they honour and acknowledge their past. Something you can discover first-hand when you explore the estate’s buildings and read through its history. This is another reason why they are such an important and interesting part of our Cape wine farm history.

Boschendal: Where wine and roses enjoy a rich Cape history

Tucked away between the Simonsberg and Drakenstein mountains, we find the beautiful Boschendal Estate. Like its name, which translates from Dutch as “bush and dale”, this Franschhoek estate is famed for its sheer natural beauty and rich Cape history. Add to that award-winning wines, a host of indoor and outdoor activities (including hikes, horse riding experiences, and picnics) and you have one of the Western Cape’s loveliest estates.

Dating as far back as 1685 and lying in a valley basin that spans some 1800 hectares, Boschendal is South Africa’s second oldest wine farm. It’s also a place where generations of families and people have tirelessly worked.

Today, the estate is a combination of the landscapes, stories, history and stunning mountains that make it so special.

According to the South African Tourism website, Boschendal’s modern winery uses the original 1795 cellar (which was built for Le Rhone manor house), along with some cutting-edge technology, to produce some of South Africa’s most well-known and loved wines, including its noble red varietal wines.

Yet the farm also has a remarkable history, which is believed to date as far back as the Stone Age. For although Huguenot refugee Jean le Long planted Boschendal’s vines in the late 1680s (thereby effectively kickstarting its winemaking history), it is understood that the farm was occupied long before. This has been confirmed by several artefacts found on the nearby mountain slopes that date back to the early, middle, and late Stone Ages.

In 1715, fellow Huguenot Abraham de Villiers bought Boschendal and kept the farm in his family until 1879. Thereafter, it was purchased by the controversial former prime minister of the Cape, Cecil John Rhodes. After that, Boschendal changed hands many times until it came to be acquired by Anglo American in 1969.

Another famous historical time for the farm, however, came way back in 1746, when Jean de Villiers built a house, which, over the centuries, has developed into a magnificent H-frame Cape Dutch mansion, complete with classic external wooden shutters.

After their acquisition of Boschendal, Anglo American set about restoring the homestead and replanting the vineyards to its former glory.

Today Boschendal Wines belongs to wine and spirits company DGB (Pty) Ltd, while the vineyards, orchards and historical core of Boschendal are owned by Tony Tabatznik and family.

Boschendal's manor house, which is one of only a few authentic historical buildings still open to the public, has baroque and neoclassical touches and remains furnished according to the early Cape tradition. It’s a marvel to explore, especially as it now doubles as an incredible art gallery.

Another fascinating part of the estate is its historic, old-fashioned rose garden, which has been tenderly restored and maintained over the years.

Today, the focus on Boschendal is very much on regenerative practices and sustainable approaches. This is evidenced in everything from their restaurant cuisine and picnics to their regenerative farming practices. Boschendal is recognised as a WWF Conservation Champion.

I love that Boschendal has retained so much of its unique Cape history, visible in everything from its Cape Dutch buildings to its famous rose garden, while also giving a nod to modern times and focusing on regenerative, environmentally friendly farming practices. Even as the estate continues to produce incredible food and wine.

Vergenoegd Löw: A heritage estate revitalised to its former glory

Moving to the Stellenbosch Wine Route, we have the incredible, newly revamped Vergenoegd Löw Wine Estate. With a history and tradition of growing and making wines for nearly 330 years, it is one of South Africa’s oldest working farms.

Vergenoegd’s documented history begins in 1696, when the Dutch East India Company granted the land to Pieter de Vos. And, if you visit the estate today, you’ll see why De Vos named it Vergenoegd (or Vergenoegt), which translates from Dutch to “to be content or satisfied”.

The estate enjoys a rich history, easily shown through its Cape Dutch architecture. The centrepiece is undoubtedly their 1773 homestead (which may actually date back to 1713). This national monument is equipped with classic details like the centre gable, whitewashed walls, painted bottle-green frames, and indigenous wooden beams.

Thanks to early renditions from visiting watercolourist, Jan Brandes, who stayed on the farm between 1786 and 1787, architecture specialists have successfully restored the estate’s architectural heritage and former beauty.

Today, the food served on the estate also reflects influences from Khoekhoen, French, Dutch, East Indies, and African roots, giving a nod to both the farm and the Cape’s deep history and diverse cultural heritage.

Vergenoegd Löw is also a WWF Conservation Champion, something they prove in everything from their famous, hardworking Indian Runner ducks (used to naturally remove pests and weeds in the vines) to the indigenous gardens and the vlei, which is home to abundant bird- and plant-life.

In 2015, Prof. Dr. Dr. Peter Löw bought the estate and began revitalising Vergenoegd Löw to its former glory while also adding some modern touches.

Years later, Löw’s vision was finally realised. Today, Vergenoegd Löw reflects on and honours its past through its esteemed architecture and natural Cape beauty, while also showcasing a modern side to it, thanks to the introduction of exquisite dining, luxury accommodation, and unique experiences.

Steenberg: Where a pioneering woman dared to dream

In 1682, Steenberg – a now-beautiful estate in the Constantia winelands and indeed, the Cape’s first farm – was established by German immigrant and pioneering woman, Catharina Ras, who is arguably one of the Cape’s most daring, controversial settlers.

Shortly after her arrival in the seemingly harsh Cape climate, Catharina married Hans Ras, a soldier and free burger. After this marriage, it’s clear that Catharina Ras’s life took a dramatic turn. Several husbands later (many of whom met unfortunate deaths), in 1682, the Widow Ras, or Catharina Michelse (so named after her fifth husband), asked Simon van der Stel for a portion of ground at the foot of Ou Kaapse Weg – and, for 25 Morgen, he agreed to lease it to Catharina.

However, according to Steenberg’s website, in 1685, when van der Stel took up ownership of nearby Groot Constantia, Catharina asked him for a legal title deed. Which is no doubt why, in 1688, van der Stel granted Catharina a mandate. This permitted her to cultivate, plough, sow, and ultimately possess the farm “below the stone mountain”.

Thus, at the hands of a lady, Steenberg – or Swaaneweide (“Feeding Place of Swans”, as it was then known, after Catharina mistook the local spur-winged geese for swans) – came into documented existence.

In 1695, Frederik Russouw purchased the farm and built the U-shaped house, along with making Swaaneweide’s first wines.

Then, in 1741, the Dutch East India Company decreed that Simons Bay would annually (from May to August) serve as the official winter port. And, as Swaaneweide was only a day’s journey from Simons Bay, it proved the ideal overnight lodging for many travellers.

Frederik Russouw’s widow, Christina Diemer, soon enjoyed a highly profitable business, thanks to this need for hospitality and provisions. Upon Christina’s death, her youngest son, Nicolaas Russouw and his wife, Anna Maria Rousselet, inherited the farm. They kept it in their possession from 1765 until 1801. (Nicolaas was also the one who added the one-of-a-kind holbol gable to the original Cape house.)

In 1802, upon Nicolaas’s death, his son Daniel bought the farm from his mother, Maria. However, difficulties arose and Daniel was forced to sell the farm to his brother-in-law, Johannes Adriaan Louw (of Fisantekraal), and Frederik Anthon Olthoff.

In 1842, a letter came before the Master of the Supreme Court, explaining that the sale to the two sons-in-law, which included Johannes Adriaan Louw, had been legal.

So, all Daniel Russouw’s children were paid and accepted a cash share – but the Russouw blood flowed through the Louw children’s veins and Johannes Adriaan’s son, Nicolaas Louw, had an especially great passion for Steenberg. This saw him go from school straight into farming and his three children, architect Andrew, Jean, and Nicolette, jointly inherited the estate from him upon his death in 1976.

Steenberg stayed in the Louw family up until 1990 when Johannesburg Consolidated Investments (JCI) bought it. After this, they re-developed it into the beautiful vineyard and hotel we know today.

In April 2005, Beck Family Estates bought the Steenberg hotel and winery. Since then, Steenberg has blossomed into a true luxury destination, complete with two high-quality restaurants, Bistro Sixteen82 and Tryn; an 18-hole championship golf course; an award-winning winery; private homes; and even a world-class spa. These attractions are beautifully enhanced by the estate’s stunning surroundings.

Steenberg is one of the few estates whose history was so clearly shaped by a woman, as, today, we can still discover the mark that Catharina Ras left on this incredible, historic estate.

While parts of our wine farm history is undoubtedly complex, there are many positive stories of cultural marvels, environmental preservation, and determination that are worth reflecting on.

And, as we continue our journey from the present into the future, we should remain both educated and mindful of the diverse aspects of our Cape heritage, both positive and negative.

For more information on these incredible historic estates, please visit their websites or explore wine.co.za for further insights.

Tamlyn Ryan

Tamlyn is a content writer by day and a travel blogger by night. Despite having a National Diploma in Journalism, her preferred niche remains travel writing. From her home base of Cape Town, Tamlyn passionately runs her travel writing blog Tamlyn Amber Wanderlust. She also enjoys sub-editing, doing reviews and compiling different travel posts. When Tamlyn is not working or blogging, she enjoys travelling for leisure, visiting wine farms, exploring the great outdoors, and curling up with a good book or Netflix TV show.

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Vergelegen
Vergelegen

Boschendal
Boschendal

Vergenoegd Löw
Vergenoegd Löw

Steenberg Vineyards
Steenberg Vineyards

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