Clifford and Maryke Roberts with Neleen Strauss (middle) in London, UK.
The United Kingdom is South Africa’s biggest wine export market, with more than 93 million litres exported for the year ending May 2023 and 90 million litres ending May 2024 according to the latest SAWIS statistics. White wines – especially Sauvignon Blanc – comprise most of the exports, with more than 62 million for 2023 and 60 million for 2024. Shiraz and Merlot lead the red pack with more than 5.8 million litres and 5.1 million for the same period and Merlot with 3.6 and 2.7 million litres.
Three South Africans are proudly promoting local wines in the United Kingdom: Neleen Strauss, co-owner and manager of High Timber Restaurant on the banks of the Thames River in London; Gerhard Perold, owner of Perold Wine Cellar in Radstock, Somerset, near Bath; and Greg Sherwood, a London-based South African Master of Wine, specialist fine wine buyer, consultant, and columnist.
Neleen Strauss has been selling South African wines for the past 22 years. High Timber, situated very close to the Millennium Bridge, celebrates its 16th birthday this year and is co-owned by Gary and Kathy Jordan of Jordan Wine Estate outside Stellenbosch.
The restaurant’s wine collection comprises 23 000 bottles with more than 500 different wines and roughly 70 wines on the wine list at any given time. Neleen – or one of her wine stewarts – escort clients to the red and white wine cellars where they can choose more wines than listed on the wine list.
High Timber does not stock only South African wines. “We are in the London Square Mile, and it would be super boring if we only bought wines from one country. The Jordans launched their Sussex wines last week and now we suddenly also sell more English wines! The wines are great,” she says.
Neleen says it is incredible to see how the demand for South African wines have increased over the past two decades. People are not only asking for these wines, but their perception is also much more positive than 20 years ago.
“Our top wines are just as good as wines from other famous wine producing countries. The top wines also age so well – if only we could keep them in the bottles for longer! Burgundy will always stay Burgundy and although our Chardonnays offer stiff competition, their top Pinot Noirs are fairly untouchable.”
Neleen says among the South African wines, “Jordan is popular for obvious reasons, but labels such as Lismore, Kanonkop, Mullineux, Ken Forrester, and Oldenburg are also in high demand. People are not very cultivar-specific and will rather say: ‘let’s try something new and exciting’ and leave it up to the stewards to recommend something.”
She suspects the popularity of South African wines cannot necessarily be ascribed to the fact that they come from South Africa, but rather that High Timber’s clients love wine. Most of them have huge wine collections, but at High Timber they have the chance to taste the best from South Africa.
“Most of them will drink more French wines, but some have become huge South African Chenin fans and are even familiar with Alheit!”
The same criticism still stands: some wines have difficult-to-pronounce names, especially among Swartland producers (names like "Treinspoor" and "Pofadder"), but people want to try these incredible wines none the less. “There is also still a small feeling that our alcohols are too high.”
Neleen says the two most underrated wines in the High Timber collection are Olifantsberg wines and Jordan’s Riesling, which offers incredible value.
“I really hope the popularity of South African wine increases even more in the coming years. Our winemakers do amazing work and are lovely people.”
Gerhard Perold has been dedicated to introducing the unique flavours and rich heritage of South African wines to the UK market since 2017. He is one of the great-grandsons of Abraham Izak Perold, the father of Pinotage, who developed a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault.
“I firmly believe that Pinotage has a promising future in the UK, a belief reinforced by Penny Streeter's successful cultivation of Pinotage under suitable conditions.
“After tasting the first vintage with [Benguela Cove] winemaker Johann Fourie, I am convinced that Pinotage is well-suited to the UK's climate. Given the trend towards healthier lifestyles, I foresee Pinotage thriving here by delivering a lower-alcohol wine while preserving its distinctive flavour profile. However, to realise this potential, further research and additional Pinotage plantings in the UK are essential. With the right backing and investment, we can explore and expand the cultivation of Pinotage, ensuring it becomes a prominent and celebrated grape variety in the UK.”
He believes South Africa has experienced an impressive rise in recent years, transforming its wine industry into a formidable competitor on the global stage. “The South African wine industry now stands shoulder to shoulder with the best wine regions in the world, a sentiment echoed by renowned wine writers internationally. This evolution underscores the exceptional quality and distinctiveness of South African wines, solidifying their place among the world's finest.”
Gerhard’s wine journey took a pivotal turn when he met Tim and Vaughan Pearson, the owners of Seven Springs Vineyard. He remembers: “The first time I nosed their Sauvignon Blanc, I was reminded of fynbos, a scent that transported me back to my childhood near Kleinmond. This serendipitous connection reaffirmed my decision to pursue a career in the wine trade.
“Encouraged by the Pearsons, I purchased my first pallet of wine from North South Wines, which included selections from KWV, Painted Wolf Wines, and Seven Springs. I began selling these wines at a local farmers market in Somerset, UK, gradually building a loyal customer base comprising both British patrons and South African expatriates. Through personal wine tasting experiences, I discovered the immense potential and interest in South African wines within the UK market.”
Gerhard pursued formal wine education, including WSET courses but says his foundational knowledge was shaped by his teenage years, sampling KWV wines with his cousins during the December holidays and visiting wine farms, experiences enriched by his family's long-standing connection to KWV. “My grandfather had a quota from KWV as my great-grandfather worked for the company, instilling in me a deep appreciation for the industry.”
He says his understanding of wine has been influenced by hands-on experience and interactions with winemakers and viticulturists. “Their passion and insights have become integral to my wine talks, which my customers deeply appreciate. Since I began my journey, I have witnessed a significant increase in the demand for South African wines. However, there is still much work to be done to fully establish South African wines in the UK market.”
He believes with the 100-year anniversary of Pinotage approaching, we have an unique opportunity to launch a major campaign for South African wine. “By leveraging our heritage and well-known strengths, we can be a powerful voice for the industry, driving greater awareness and appreciation for South African wines.
“There is a growing interest in unique and lesser-known cultivars and wines from various regions. South African winemakers are well-positioned to fill this gap with cultivars like Cinsault and Grenache, which are not as widely available but have significant potential to attract wine enthusiasts seeking something different.”
Gerhard says customers often request specific South African cultivars and labels, showing particular interest in renowned varietals such as Chenin Blanc, Pinotage, and various red wines. Many seek wines from regions they visited during their travels or work in South Africa. Highly sought-after labels such as Kanonkop, KWV, and Meerlust, along with other esteemed, historic wineries, enjoy significant demand.
“These wines are favoured for their distinctive flavours, exceptional quality, and the unique terroir of South African vineyards, which impart a special character to the wines. Customers appreciate the bold flavours, rich aromas, and exceptional value for money that South African wines offer. Feedback is overwhelmingly positive, with many praising the diversity and complexity of these wines.
“Some criticisms highlight the lack of recognition for lesser-known South African wine varieties. To address these concerns and enhance the reputation of South African wines, it is crucial to invest in better promotion of a broader range of cultivars. The WSET handbook, for instance, dedicates only a few pages to South African wines while providing extensive detail on European wines. This disparity underscores the need for greater education, promotion, and advertising of South African wines.
“Despite the widespread recognition of regions like Bordeaux, many customers remain unaware of South Africa's own specialty, the Cape Blend. This unique style, exclusive to South Africa, represents an exceptional opportunity that we have yet to fully capitalize on. Known for our excellent red blends, often compared to Bordeaux, we should instead focus on promoting the Cape Blend as our signature offering.”
He says by emphasising the distinctiveness of Cape Blends and actively marketing them, we can elevate their status to be as recognizable and esteemed as Bordeaux.
Gerhard states that South African wines often do not receive the financial recognition they deserve for their quality. “For instance, one of the most underrated wines in my portfolio is the Perold Tributum from The Mentors range. This wine has received significant accolades and multiple awards, yet it retails for under £50.
“In comparison, other prestigious wines, both from South Africa and around the world, command much higher prices. The MR de Compostella, for example, retails for £75, while the Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux is priced at £130. Notably, wine critic Tim Atkin has awarded similar scores to both the Margaux and the Tributum, highlighting the exceptional quality of South African wines that often go undervalued in the market.”
Greg Sherwood is a regular judge at the International Wine & Spriits Competition, Decanter World Wine Awards, SA Top 100 Wines, Nederburg Wine Auction, and WoSA World Sommelier Awards. He tastes many of the world's finest wines every week.
He says after the classics of France, Italy and Spain, in a European context, South African wines are certainly hot on the tail of top Californian and Australian fine wines. “There is a close cultural affinity, a classicism to Cape whites and reds and they are extremely well made for the price. We are comfortably ahead of countries likes Chile and Argentina in the UK.”
Greg retuned to the UK in early 2000 and from the moment he joined a wine merchant, he was promoting South Africa’s top wines. “A tough sell back then, but thankfully it got easier and easier over the years!” he remembers.
Greg says when he started selling wine in the UK, the market had basically three categories: one that just bought from supermarkets and did not care where it came from as long as it was good and cheap. “The second group were the “Kensington-on-Cape” brigade who travelled to SA throughout apartheid and often owned holiday houses in the Cape… they of course knew top Cape wine was cheap and delicious. Lastly, there was the “anything but SA brigade” who were still quite self-righteous despite the end of apartheid and used clichés like “I don’t like the burnt rubber taste” in broad generalisations, when justifying not wanting to buy SA wines. Thankfully, the first and second category slowly merged, with the third evaporating slowly over the years.”
He says, generally, many consumers will remember the name of a producer or the name of a wine they enjoyed on holiday to the Cape and then seek it out, or more educated consumers will certainly ask for certain famous estates or famous producers, less so for specific cultivars.
“As far as popular cultivars go, the market it quite segmented, but popular cultivars continue to be Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Cinsault and Pinotage for reds and Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chenin Blanc for whites. Other than the exceptional value for money at all quality levels, consumers like the beauty of the Cape, the history and the winery personalities and individual stories.”
He says there is no real stand out criticism against our wines. “There are obviously wine snobs everywhere in the world who will always regard French classics as more ‘noble’ but this is receding very quickly. SA fine wine is highly respected and revered and grows in popularity with every great vintage release, the 2021s being the latest in a line of great vintages including 2015 and 2017. In the local SA market, consumers whine about premium wine prices. But in the UK, these fine wines are normally highly allocated and sell out steadily, even in a slow retail market like we currently have in Europe at the moment.”
Greg believes Pinotage is certainly on the rise again. “A new generation of drinkers are seeking these wines out and they like the new wave styles, whether lighter and fresher or richer and riper. Space for all styles. Cinsault is definitely very popular for lower alcohol styles, able to be served slightly chilled in the summer and they are normally very high quality, often from old vines. Colombard, as an alternative to Chenin Blanc is also on the rise.
“While still incredibly popular, I would say that White Blends are still a bit underrated by a broad segment of the fine wine market. The top examples can rival the best whites from anywhere in the world.”
He concludes with very encouraging words: “I can definitely see the most sought-after SA fine wine names becoming even more collectable, sought after and tightly allocated, and I can see this lack of wider availability broadening the market demand, opening the door to a new generation of fine wine producers.
“With all our innovation, quality and variety of styles, SA wines are assured an ongoing popularity in the years ahead, even if general wine sales are put under pressure by a new generation that may drink less. Consumers are chasing an experiential wine scenario, and South African wines tick a lot of boxes!”