It doesn’t happen too often that Christo comes to town. So when Francois and Christo of Le Riche came to Johannesburg for the pre-release tasting of the 2021 Richesse Heritage Blend, 2020 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon at Embarc in Parkhurst, Johannesburg, it was indeed a rare occasion. Having completed my first wine harvest in 2021 with Christo and spent six months in Stellenbosch making Cabernet Sauvignon, I couldn’t resist the opportunity of a catch up over some wine. Little did everyone realise that they would be tasting one of the best Cabernet Sauvignons in the world; recently crowned "Best in Show" at the 2023 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA), a few days before the announcement was made public. We spoke about what’s next and what legacy they will want to leave behind.
This small family run winery situated in Raithby, Stellenbosch does not go far back in history as you would think. Only a few decades ago, Etienne Le Riche established the original winery in 1996 in the Jonkershoek Valley. Etienne has paved the way for excellence in wine production in South Africa having spent over twenty years at Rustenberg Wine Estate; being the founding member of the Cape Winemakers Guild and multiple winner of the Platter Wine Guide’s wine of the year award. Retired with his wife, Etienne has handed over the reigns. Now a multi-generational venture, including his children and extended family, the winery is looking to the future with new creativity, vision and continuing the legacy.
The winery is run by all family: Christo, Francois, and Yvonne. A brother, a sister and a cousin (with the vigilance of Christo’s dad, Etienne, ever present). Christo, cellarmaster and winemaker. Francois, an accountant by profession who runs all things commercial and marketing at the farm. Sister Yvonne, who is a Cape Wine Master in her own right, manages export and logistics. A very formidable trio in which all three have very different personalities, but with one indistinguishable and undeniable fact about them: the warm embrace of family and the love of sharing wine.
Alongside the trio is the assistant winemaker Mark Daniels who makes sure everything is working in the background and who has been with the family since inception at the original winery in Jonkershoek working with Christo’s dad.
Christo Le Riche says: "Legacy is about what you leave behind for the generations to enjoy and remember you by. This has a wide interpretation, but for us it is about building a platform that our children can stand on."
The Le Riches are world-renowned for producing some of the best cabernet sauvignon expressions. Being perennial five-star Platter's Guide performers, success at the Le Riche household is very much a standard that is second to none. The secret: each year is a rigorous selection of the best Cabernet Sauvignon sites in and around Stellenbosch, which includes the Helderberg, Stellenbosch Valley, and Firgrove.
If wine is a region in a glass, then the Le Riche’s have captured the true essence of Stellenbosch in a bottle.
"Legacy is an honour. It’s the receiving of something great, understanding its potential and striving to build on that excellence for the next generation to come," says Francois Le Riche.
Not bound by the "estate" rules, which in essence gives Christo the slight edge on the freedom and flexibility to create the best possible wine each year without restraint, with only the best possible grapes at his disposal. Combined with meticulous attention to detail, the highest levels of scrutiny, and consistency, the Le Riche’s have seemingly found the formula in creating arguably the best Cabernet Sauvignon in the world, as evidence by their latest 2020 Reserve release.
South Africa and the world certainly agrees as their wines produced in the last 15 years have been held to critical acclaim. But more importantly, they hold the bastion of Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon as one of the world’s greatest regions for the cultivar. The one is inextricably linked to the other.
Being the founder and chairman of the Stellenbosch Cabernet Collective, Christo’s passion and dedication has always been a driving force towards the excellence of Cabernet Sauvignon. He adds, "After finishing my Honours studies in Viticulture at Stellenbosch University, I did a series of harvest internships at wineries across the globe. This was all part of my training in Cabernet Sauvignon production and lasted around 3 months each. I started in 2006 at Bouchard Finlayson, then Thelema and Staggs Leap Winery (Napa) in 2007, Glen Carlou and Screaming Eagle (Napa) in 2008 and Hartenberg and Chateau Angelus (Bordeaux) in 2009." Upon returning to South Africa, he collaborated with his dad on a joint vintage in 2010. His first solo vintage at Le Riche came in 2011 as head winemaker.
When asked to describe the perfect Cabernet Sauvignon, Christo says it's an "iron fist in a velvet glove" – delicate tight-rope of power, precision and balance.
In contrast to Yvonne, who completed a degree in Politics, Philosophy & Economics (PPE) at Stellenbosch University. She states that "my interest in wine took me further to London where I worked for Majestic Wine (2005/2006). A valuable experience in both the UK trade as well as exposure to world-class wines." She returned to South Africa and worked as Sommelier for Singita Sabi Sands and joined Le Riche in 2010. Yvonne qualified as a Cape Wine Master in 2015 with a thesis on Cinsaut in SA.
"Legacy is about the combination of values, ethics, experience and a vision to leave a lasting impact on the world. An impression left on your loved-ones, industry and in your wines," says Yvonne. "Very few wine lovers have the opportunity to be fully involved in a winery from viticulture, vinification, blending all the way to selling and reaping long-term rewards. To be able to work with all aspects of the wine industry is what has always sparked my interest. My father created an opportunity (I think unwittingly and without intending his children to join), which just kept drawing me back to be part of. Such an honour to be part of this legacy!"
Francois joined in an unusual manner and having gone the finance route. He studied B.Com Management Accounting at Stellenbosch University. He adds, "I started my career in accounting in various sectors, both locally and in the UK (i.e. banking, hospitality and agriculture). Moving on to Business and Financial Management, I was the financial manager for an abalone farm as well as the general and financial manager for Bouchard Finlayson, prior to joining Le Riche. I joined Le Riche Wines towards the end of 2018."
"I’ve always had a passion for wines," he continues, "Being part of a team that strives towards producing the top Cab in the country, neigh the world as was proven at the Decanter World Wine Awards this year is a legacy that one can be proud of."
Focused and to the point, the Le Riche wine portfolio consists of (but not limited) three primary wines:
- Le Riche Richesse Heritage Blend, a consistent 5-way cabernet blend. The Merlot and Cinsault in the blend gives an elegant juiciness without being too heavy.
- Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon, which is brooding with sumptuous black fruit on the palate with a coiled intensity of being shaped by 20 months in oak barrels.
- The crown jewel is the Le Riche Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Reserve status is only endowed if the grapes and resulting wine measures up to exceptional standard.
When asked how the cabernet sauvignons of 2021/2022 compare with the 2017/2015 vintages Christo says, "2021 will compete as one of the greatest. It is a tannic vintage with elegant fruit and great aging potential. 2020 was a cooler vintage with less tannin but loads of juicy fruit and great ripeness."
The Le Riche Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 was given one of the highest honours at the 2023 Decanter Wine Awards, being named Best in Show with a remarkable 97/100 score.
Classic cabernet aromas of blackcurrants, black cherry and cassis with great freshness on the nose. On entry the palate is rich, velvety and opulent yet remarkably fresh and linear showcasing black fruit, a creamy mouthfeel and dark chocolate finish. A deliciously firm, appetising acidity is balanced by round, structured tannins. A wine with a wonderfully long, complex finish showcasing great potential for maturation.
When asked about the current vintages of Le Riche and comparisons to yesteryear, Francois adds, "For me the 2020 vintage was very fruit driven and the wines have a colloquial ‘juiciness’ to it. They also showcase great tannin structure, which make our wines lend themselves towards great ageing. Wines that can be enjoyed both young and as an aged wine. The 2021 vintage however saw huge tannins that brought forth a power to these wines. Standing up there with 2015 and 2017 as one of the great vintages of this millennium, I think each person enjoying the 2021 vintage now can be assured that these wines will only get better, really benefit from a few years in bottle and be a true investment in their cellars!"
Not to be outshone by all the Cabernet Sauvignon, Le Riche also produces a Chardonnay. If you are lucky enough to get your hands on one as it sells out FAST! Grapes from Polkadraai and Firgrove, wild fermentation in amphora and oak barrels. Light with fresh citrus and a whip of creamy lemon on the palate. What more could you want on a summers day!
On top of being a new dad and recently being inducted into the Cape Winemakers Guild, whilst juggling experimentation of different varietals to be added to the wine portfolio, Christo adds, "being a winemaker has definitely moved to second place, but the biggest impact is on time management. Lukas demands a lot of time, and I want to enjoy him as much as possible. This forces me to ensure that I work effectively and efficiently in order maximize the free time I have with him."
What lies ahead for Le Riche? Looking ahead to the future, Christo states: "We will always stick to Stellenbosch when it comes to Cabernet. It is one of the great Cabernet regions of the world. At the moment we are securing and planting new vineyards that will be able to carry us for the next 30 years. I am really looking forward to working with this fruit, and some new wards like Polkadraai and Bottelary. We have also started to release some single vineyards to our mailing list. These are great to help tell the story of Stellenbosch and the amazing diversity the region offers."
Back in 2021 when I drove to Stellenbosch for harvest and couldn’t find accommodation, Christo was gracious enough to allow me stay with him for a few weeks at the farm. I must admit that I reluctantly didn’t want to leave due to the hospitality that was shown towards me by the Le Riche family. A warm and reassuredly welcoming family, it’s very hard to put into words how random strangers can treat you like family and inviting you to break bread with them. My first harvest, although brutal with many a tired night, was probably one of the best moments I’ve had in this life and I will forever be thankful for that opportunity.
The unusual commonality of personas being Christo, Yvonne and Francois is perhaps why the success at Le Riche Wines will be entrenched for many years to come. With these three at the helm, the future could not look any brighter. Success and legacy of Le Riche Wines is certainly in good hands.