Inside the newest urban winery: The Eiffel Tower

Thursday, 13 April, 2023
Wine Spectator, Collin Dreizen & Shawn Zylberberg
After hauling tanks, barrels and crush equipment up 187 feet, a trio of eno-entrepreneurs has set out to return Paris to its historic winemaking glory.

We think of urban wineries as a new-ish phenomenon, but Paris had winemakers—even vineyards—aplenty before the 19th-century phylloxera epidemic. Now one small team of enterprising enophiles is reviving the Parisian winemaking tradition, with a flourish worthy of the City of Lights: They crushed and fermented the grapes for the new Winerie Parisienne on the Eiffel Tower, using a makeshift setup of vats and barrels on a deck 187 feet up above the 7th Arrondissement.

We last met with the team behind Winerie Parisienne in 2017, when they had just planted 7.5 acres of vines in Davron, a small town in Plaine de Versailles, west of Paris. Having built an urban winery in Paris’ 11th Arrondissement, their plan was to harvest grapes from their vines outside the city and bring viticulture back to the Paris area.

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