Exceptional views and food: the offering from chef Bertus Basson and the new restaurant at Waterkloof.
Bertus is a much-awarded chef with a long career whose renown was given impetus through his books and television programmes including In Die Sop: Restaurant Evolusie and Sjefhuis, as well as The Ultimate Braai Master, Brood en Botter and Goed, Beter, Bertus.
Now he finds himself in a new location, at Waterkloof. Chorus joins Eike, Spek & Bone, and De Vrije Burger in Stellenbosch; and, Geuwels and Clara’s Barn at Vergenoegd Löw wine estate near Somerset West, in the Basson portfolio of eateries. But, it also shines amidst a veritable smorgasbord of fine restaurants on wine farms in the region, including among others Boschendal’s The Werf, Rust en Vrede Restaurant, Indochine at Delaire Graff Estate and Jordan Restaurant.
The space at Waterkloof became renowned as a restaurant when Eat Out Top 10 chef Gregory Czarnecki was at the helm for over a decade but closed two years ago – a victim of the pandemic. The demise of the fine dining venue was deeply lamented.
The newcomer, however, promises to return the estate to its former glory as a must-do Cape wine and dine destination. It is situated some 52km east of Cape Town, in the Helderberg wine region.
Waterkloof is owned by British wine merchant Paul Boutinot, who acquired it in the early 2000s. It comprises some 100ha, with just over half planted to vineyards that are certified organic. The remainder of the property is given over for conservation.
The winery and restaurant at Waterkloof occupies one of the Cape’s most dramatic locations
The dramatic concrete-and-glass building housing its winery and which contributes to Waterkloof’s distinction was designed in industrial style and hugs a ridge along the Schapenberg hills. Floor-to-ceiling windows of double-volume space look out over fynbos, vineyards and in the distance, Gordon’s Bay.
At Waterkloof, it’s the restaurant that gets first dibs on the views. Its tables are spread throughout an open-plan area, along the windows and interiors. Upon arrival, guests are ushered into a lounge for pre-meal drinks around a magnificent, suspended fireplace – a signature hallmark of the space.
While the layout hasn’t changed much since Czarnecki, subtle tweaks have been administered by Cape Town architecture and furniture design company Naturalis. Bespoke crockery was designed by Kleinmond ceramicist Corinne De Haas.
As for the menu, it follows Bertus’s philosophy in place across all his sit-down restaurants – dishes reflect the seasonal availability of ingredients that are locally sourced. The launch menu offers four courses for R675, with wine pairing for an additional R350; or, a six-course chef’s menu for R795, with the option of wine pairing for an additional R450.
It is filled with Bertus-typical South Africanisms, inspired by his own upbringing. For example, the launch menu features an “Avocado Ritz bun” with a twist of spiced peanut and lettuce, and a potato and Huguenot croquette.
Starters include raw swordfish with nectarine, almond, chili, and coriander; and second courses, crisp confit chicken, langoustine, sweetcorn, and peas. The mains offer a choice between roast yellowtail, mussels, fennel, and marrow; or dry-aged beef with a braised shin sauce, Brussels sprouts, and mushrooms. A selection of desserts includes milk, bread, and honey souffle.
A sample menu is available to view at bertusbasson.com.
Where the wine list is concerned, the focus is naturally on Waterkloof, but also incorporates a selection of wines from other South African producers. For example, Calitzdorp ports are offered with the desserts.
Chorus serves lunch Tuesday to Sunday, and dinner, Thursday to Saturday.
For more information, visit www.waterkloofwines.co.za.
This article was first published on Visit Winelands