His most recent passion project, Telmont, is his love letter to Champagne and Mother Nature. Ludovic, along with investors from Rémy Cointreau (Louis XIII’s owner), has set the bar high to create the best sustainable Champagne in the world. In the three years since its relaunch, the relatively unknown Champagne house has received acclaim from industry pros and A-listers like Leonardo DiCaprio, the brand’s latest investor.
Du Plessis received his wine education from his grandfather on the Caribbean island of St. Martin, where he opened the restaurant Le Mini Club. The Kennedys, Jasper Jones, and other famous names frequented the shabby palm palapa. Du Plessis took to selling Cuban cigars as his first job, and it was when he decided to host a cigar and Champagne pairing for his top clients that he really fell in love with bubbly wine. In fact, it was Dom Pérignon and the renowned chef de cave (cellar master) Richard Geoffroy that changed the trajectory of du Plessis’ life.
This time, du Plessis’ approach is focused on sustainability, yet his expectations for the wine itself remain high. Every Monday, he takes his bike on the train from Paris to Champagne and rides across the estate, no matter the weather. He often talks about his 17 team members at Telmont and the advantages of running a smaller team.
Born in 1912 in Damery, Champagne, during the Champagne Riots, Telmont is now spearheading the ecological revolution in Champagne. “We have one foot in tradition and one foot in modernity, but both feet down in the Earth and the soil, big time!” says du Plessis. “We believe in everything we do because we believe that wine is good if the Earth is beautiful — as simple as that.” The brand’s devotion to sustainability is seen through its viticulture and transparency. This ethos culminated in Telmont’s 2021 project “Au Nom de la Terre,” “In The Name of Mother Nature,” with each effort directed toward protecting the place we call home — especially the region of Champagne.
But what does Telmont mean for Champagne? Du Plessis spoke to VinePair about his journey back to the region, the importance of sustainability, and his vision for Telmont’s future.
1. What made Telmont such a special Champagne house for you and one you saw potential in?
Three years ago, I told myself, “Ludo, what do you want to do with the rest of your life?” I said, “I love Champagne, and I have a dream to buy a Champagne house.” And then, I started to go on my bicycle to the vineyards in Champagne on the weekends. I visited 30 houses, and I always told myself that when I found the one that checks the four boxes, I dive in no matter what.
These four boxes were that, for one, I wanted a Champagne house with an amazing history and at least a century-old house. Two, I wanted a family business, and I wanted the family to still be there and involved. Three, I wanted a house with amazing Champagne. And four, I wanted a house that has already started an organic agriculture conversion. It was very difficult because only 4 percent of Champagne is certified organic today.
And then this Champagne house that I didn’t know about checked all four boxes for me. So I said, “That’s for me. I can’t escape. This is my moment.” So I introduced the idea to the CEO of the group that owned Rémy Cointreau and the family that owns the group. I told them I would like to make the most sustainable Champagne house. They loved the project and proposed that we do it within Rémy Cointreau.
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