That cabernet or chardonnay is destined to be opened and quickly. Don’t pass go, do not wait for tertiary flavours that come from maturity to develop. Some wine lovers will prefer younger wines no matter what.
Despite the immediacy of our buy-as-needed wine consumption, I always include a suggested drinking window as part of each wine review should anyone be interested in delayed gratification. The ability to age is expected for expensive bottles, but any well-made wine, with good balance of acidity, alcohol and texture, stands a good chance of developing. Some styles of wine – like whites and reds from classic grape varieties and regions – are specifically made for extended aging.
Refreshing or overtly fruity wines, such as Marlborough sauvignon blanc or rosés from Provence or most other parts of the world, are best enjoyed upon release. That goes double for most inexpensive, mass-produced wines. They will develop in bottle, but likely at the expense of the fruity intensity that makes them appealing in the first place...
For anyone with an existing wine cellar or who’s looking to stock a new wine fridge or wine rack, here are some of the regions and styles of wine that I’m currently focusing on buying and not drinking right away.
Bordeaux
While its first growth properties continue to be held in high regard, with skyrocketing prices as a result, the rest of Bordeaux is often overlooked. Winemakers in various parts of the world, notably Napa and Sonoma and South Australia and Western Australia, have adopted and adapted Bordeaux’s signature style – cabernet-merlot blends – and developed loyal followings with consumers and collectors. Time spent touring the area with Globe readers in June was a reminder of how much quality wine is made in high quantities beyond the splurge-worthy chateaux. Bordeaux continues to be the world’s largest fine wine district, which means there’s desirable bottles that offer good value for money to be had, especially in the $50 to $100 range
South African Chenin blanc
The money I used to spend on white Burgundy for the cellar is increasingly being diverted to South African producers. Outside of a continued good supply of chablis at a range of prices, the chardonnays from other celebrated parts of of Burgundy are becoming more expensive and increasingly difficult to source. Severe frost in April and a cool and damp summer made for a tiny crop in 2021, which is sure to make matters worse. Thankfully there’s an abundance of barrel fermented chenin blancs from Stellenbosch, Swartland and elsewhere to fill the gap. While imminently drinkable upon release, these will develop richer flavours and more complexity with age, say five to 10 years in the cellar. I’d stock up on wines by Alheit Vineyards, Bellingham, Ken Forrester, Mullineux and Radford Dale...
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