The 1821 Grand Constance made with humble Hanepoot grapes. Picture: Groot Constantia
Muscadel: a fortified South African wine that has been enmeshed in South African culture for decades – yet it often does not get the recognition it deserves.
Muscadel is made from Muscat de Alexandre or Frontignan grapes, said to be one of the oldest vines planted in South Africa. In Jane Austen’s novel dealing with matters of courtship and broken hearts, Sense and Sensibility, the brokenhearted character, Marianne, is told to drink ‘the finest old Constantia wine’ for its ‘healing powers on a disappointed heart’.
Constantia put South Africa on the global wine map, and it wasn’t a hearty red or a crisp Sauvignon Blanc – but a beloved Hanepoot.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, Constantia was renowned for its desert wines which were savoured by society’s upper echelons from around the globe. It is said that figures like Otto von Bismarck and King Louis of France indulged in the sweet liquid, and even an English Prime Minister ensured that regular consignments were delivered to Buckingham Palace after sampling one in Downing Street.
Arguably the most famous tale about muscadel has to do with it being the wine of choice for Napoleon Bonaparte when he was imprisoned on St Helena. It is documented that a monthly order was delivered for the exclusive use of Napoleon from 1815 until his death in 1821.
An unopened bottle of this Grand Constance 1821, originally destined for Napelon, sold for R967 300 in 2021. But another wine went largely unnoticed at the auction, even though it fetched a whopping R91 040: the Juabert Family Muscat d’Alexandrie 1800 – but more about that later.
Tasting the divine
Some people’s first encounter with wine likely came in the form of communion wine at a religious institution. There is an origin story to where South Africa’s nagmaalwyn originated, dating back to a certain Herman Lambertys Bosman and the Strooidakkerk in Paarl.
Herman was a leading church elder, and in the 18th century, he acquired two vats from the Dutch ship Overrys to fill with wine for communion services. These vats were then topped with more wine every year. It somewhat gives the impression of a starter culture for sourdough kombucha – but with a much more pleasant aroma.
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