South Africa: The Cinsault proclamation

Monday, 9 May, 2022
The Wine Advocate, Anthony Mueller
South African Cinsault is crushable, food-friendly, bright, florally lifted, and filled with gobs of crunchy red fruit expressions.
Le Ballon Rouge is an unsuspecting film that has warmed the hearts of millions since first finding its way to the screens in 1956. Among the short film's top awards, it won a BAFTA award in 1957 and took home the coveted Palme d’Or at the Cannes Film Festival in 1956 for best short film. With a 35-minute run time, it’s simply a story about a boy and a balloon, yet it delivers a cheerful, happy and uplifting conclusion through the lens of child.
 
Wines can also offer these same experiences. I believe that every wine should come with a promise, and that promise is that the wine tastes good. South African Cinsault, to me, embodies the heart and essence that Le Ballon Rouge captures. In its simplicity, South African Cinsault is crushable, food-friendly, bright, florally lifted, and filled with gobs of crunchy red fruit expressions. But is it serious? Age-worthy?
 

The old ideas

There are still consumers and producers who continue to insist Cinsault is not a serious wine and does not possess the ability to age. While these ideas may have been correct at one point in the past, times have changed. Some continue to insist Cinsault is not serious, is incapable of making a wine with layers and complexity and that it will never be considered to be better than a beach or picnic wine; but I see what the thoughtful and sincere producers are doing with this grape, and they are rewriting the script. The rigidity of unyielding compromise will always limit the mindset.
 
This reminds me of another old idea touted by Philip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, who grievously disliked Gamay, banishing the grape in 1395. Fast-forward to 1937, Beaujolais was declared an AOC. For decades after the creation of Beaujolais AOC, the wine and its reputation remained inferior. In my lifetime, I’ve seen both the quality and the price increase for Cru Beaujolais. Thankfully, South African Cinsault has captured the hearts of many winemakers who see its value and its historical importance to the country.
 

The facts

A hundred years ago, Cinsault was the most planted red grape in South Africa; coincidentally, that was in the same decade in which Pinotage was created from the crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault. Initially, Cinsault was brought to South Africa for its heat resistance, something that is more meaningful with today’s global climate change.
 
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Click HERE to read the full article, curated by Vintelligence.

This insightful article was curated by Pieter van Niekerk, chief intelligence officer of Vintelligence. He is an ocean-loving cowboy who has built a successful career as an agricultural economist and agribusiness manager in the beef, horticultural, banking, and wine industries of South Africa. Born in Johannesburg, he holds a degree in BSc Agric Hons Agricultural Economics. He currently lives in Cape Town with his cattle dog, Thomas.