Climate change: 'We're making wine in Norway'

Tuesday, 19 April, 2022
BBC News, Ruth Alexander
"A lot of our cool climate limits for winemaking have changed. They've gone further north in the northern hemisphere, and further south in the southern hemisphere," says climatologist Dr Greg Jones.

Slinde Vineyard, situated next to a fjord in Norway.

Norwegian winemaker Bjørn Bergum talks to his grapevines.

"You have to have a connection with them. When I woke up this morning, there was 3cm of snow. I was saying to them: 'Don't be afraid - it will be nice in the afternoon."

Perhaps Bjørn's plants do need a little extra encouragement; they're growing at 61 degrees north of the equator - far outside the 30-50 degrees latitude traditionally considered optimum for wine production.

But climate change is pushing vineyards further north and south towards the poles.

The trends are absolutely clear, according to Dr Greg Jones, a climatologist who specialises in grape production and wines and is himself the owner of a winery, Abacela, in Oregon in the US.

"A lot of our cool climate limits have changed. They've gone further north in the northern hemisphere, and further south in the southern hemisphere."

Slinde Vineyard, which Bjorn runs with his partner Halldis, is at the furthest reaches of these new limits. Positioned by the Sognefjord, Norway's longest and deepest fjord, the vines grow on slopes which catch the sun while facing snow-capped mountains.

Bjørn remembers the fjord freezing over in winter during his childhood, but he says that never happens now. He's noticed other changes in the weather over the years.

"I can see when it's raining, it's raining more, but when it's warm, it's warmer too."

While he worries about the state of the planet and in own country, he acknowledges that, as a wine producer, climate change is working in his favour.

That said, it is still a challenge to produce wine this far north.

Bjørn says it takes a particular kind of hard work and dedication.

"I do everything for my 2 700 babies. I'll stay up in the night if I need to, to help them to survive if a frost is coming."

He works with a variety of grapes to create blends that have tropical notes and a minerality that he says comes from the clay soil.

A secret ingredient is the special quality of the light this far north.

"We have got a lot of light here. That's our advantage. And we have chilly nights. And we have also got the sun from the reflections from the fjord into the steep hillside.

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Bjørn Bergum, winemaker and co-owner of Slinde Vineyard, with this grapevines.
Bjørn Bergum, winemaker and co-owner of Slinde Vineyard, with this grapevines.

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