Slow ripening of fruit in the vineyards due to a late summer resulted in Franschhoek-based estate Chamonix harvesting this year’s grapes 10 days later than average, with the first Pinot Noir being snipped in the second week of February. Neil Bruwer, Chamonix winemaker, says he already anticipated late onset of harvest when spring and early summer remained comfortably cool.
“Last year saw generally cool conditions on Chamonix throughout the vineyards’ various developing phases,” says Bruwer. “There was the cold wet winter during which we had around 800mm of rain, followed by a truly mild, brisk spring. And when we began looking for the summer heat-waves of November and December, well, they were just missing in action.”
During those cool months of spring and early summer, bud-break, flowering, and berry-set occurred evenly without disruption and stress due to unexpected hot spells. “When we had some summer rain in November and December the temperatures and air moisture remained low, keeping downy mildew and other diseases at bay,” says Bruwer.
From the third week of January the Cape heat set in. “We’ve had a few days of 35 degrees-plus, but in-between the hot days the south-easter has fanned the vines. Farming on the mountain slopes between 300m and 400m above sea-level has the wind making its presence known, playing a major role in freshening-up the vines and the ripening fruit.”
Ripening has been even, with well-formed, tight bunches showing health and weight. “Chamonix is now again producing Cap Classique, so the Chardonnay for the base wine was first to come-in as this wine needs big acids,” says Bruwer. “And as far as the varieties for our signature wine ranges – Pinot Noir and Chardonnay – go, the Pinot beat the Chardonnay in the ripening race this year.”
With the 2022 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in barrel, the opinion is that this year’s wines are expressive with exuberant varietal character.
“The young Chardonnays, scarcely a month in wood, are belying their youth with amazingly developed profiles,” says Bruwer. “One can already taste the Chamonix Chardonnay characteristics of grilled nuts, citrus, and white flowers. With months on the lees and in wood still to come, I'm expecting Chardonnays of structure and complexity as well as refinement.”
A good Chardonnay year makes a good Pinot Noir year. Thus, the Chamonix 2022 Pinot Noirs aging in barrel are, too, showing poise, depth and palate weight in their sprightly youth. “There is just nothing like the scent of fresh, young Pinot Noir resting in a barrel of French oak, and this year the aromas and flavour profiles of these wines are truly enticing,” says Bruwer. “On the Pinot Noir front, expect succulence, cherry and brightness – the deeper notes of forest floor and autumn mornings will develop as the wine matures.”
Bruwer says that the farm’s red Bordeaux varieties are still ripening, but if the wine quality seen thus far is anything to go by, 2022 appears to be an astounding year. “2021 was a truly fine vintage, which I did not think will be easily surpassed,” he says. “But this year is truly no slouch, and wine consumers are in for some great wines from the early 2020s.”