Marketers love to affix the word “hand” to imply artisan craftmanship behind products. From “hand-tossed pizza” and “hand-breaded chicken nuggets” to “handmade spirits,” the word has been diluted to near worthlessness.
Yet, in the wine world, the phrase “hand-picked grapes” does have meaning. But what value do they add? Do grapes harvested by humans make better wines, and do they justify an increase in cost?
First, let’s clarify the terms. Hand-harvesting is performed only using hand tools, including knives and/or shears, either manual or electric. After bunches are cut, they’re placed in collection baskets or bins and transported to the winery.
Machine picking, introduced in the 1960s, typically refers to an over-the-row harvester that travels through vineyards using rubber or fiberglass rods to shake fruit off vines and into large reservoirs.
Machine harvesting is arguably one of the most important advancements in the wine industry over the last 50 years. It’s been one of the leading drivers in spreading good, affordable wine across the globe.
Winemakers typically swear by the harvesting method they use (though many use both). Ultimately, what works best depends on the winemaker’s circumstances, goals and intended wine style.
When Hand Harvesting is Better or a Necessity
Most wineries hand-pick their grapes designated to their flagship wine. Many consider the process gentler on valuable vines and grapes, and believe only a trained eye can ensure collection of the best fruit.
Ornellaia and Opus One are among the producers who subscribe to this line of thinking, and believe the benefits justify the wine’s cost.
There is truth to the claim, especially concerning delicate grapes that are prone to break during machine harvesting. Pinot Noir’s thin skins require careful handling, says Jamie Kutch, winemaker and proprietor of Kutch Wines.
“Broken or damaged fruit leads to oxidation, browning of aromatics and bacterial growth,” he says.
Kutch picks with clippers rather than knives, for another, very specific reason. “Clippers enable a clean cut of the stem, which we include in the fermentation,” says Kutch.
Other wine styles, like late-harvest and noble-rot dessert wines, demand manual labor, too. The cutting of individual botrytized berries for Sauternes or Trockenbeerenauslese from bunches can only be done by hand, which may require several passes through the vineyard over a number of weeks. The process is both laborious and expensive.
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