When you are in the business of making wine, you can be certain that there are a couple of cold ones waiting in the wings for when you end your day. A decade or so ago the beer industry underwent an awakening with microbreweries popping up everywhere. What was once lauded as sophisticated beer drinking by bearded beauties globally has become commonplace. The hype may be quieting down, but microbreweries are here to stay.
Now meet Apiwe Nxusani Mawela, the first female co-owner and shareholder in a microbrewery in South Africa. Relatively unknown, if only by lack of indulgent self-promotion, she is known as ‘The Brewster’, with a scorcher of a career and CV to back that title up. Originally from Butterworth in the Eastern Cape, she completed her BSc degree at the University of Witwatersrand, followed by her Honours in Microbiology from the University of Pretoria. Apiwe then joined SAB Ltd for seven years, completing both a Diploma in Brewing and the Master Brewer Diploma through the Institute of Brewing and Distilling whilst making her mark there. In 2014, she joined the Brewhogs team as co-owner and BrewMaster, where after she started her own company called Brewster’s Craft in 2015. The company offers training, consultancy and quality testing for the craft brewing industry. That’s a whole lot of brew for someone who is not a ‘bru’ at all.
When Apiwe’s not brewing or teaching, she is involved in the growth of the South African craft brewing community and serves within quite a few associations. She is blazing an unprecedented path forward - I predict that Apiwe will be one of the most influential women in the African drinks industry by the end of the decade. I talked beer, happiness and brewing methodologies with The Brewster.
What vintage are you?
I am proudly a 1984 vintage.
The term 'Brewmaster' is an amazing title. Did you ever imagine that you would hold that title? What did you want to be growing up?
When I was younger I wanted to become a psychologist then changed to becoming a medical doctor, I somehow always knew I would end up within the sciences but never imagined myself as a Brewmaster. Back then I didn’t even know there was such a study called Biotechnology nor that one could become a Brewmaster.
If aliens came down from space and you had to explain to them in one bottle of beer what it is that you do, what would you make?
I would make a sorghum based alcoholic beverage that would have easy drinkability – it would be refreshing with loads of complexity. That for me would not only showcase my brewing skills and knowledge, but also highlight the traditional African brewing practices.
What do you normally drink at home?
I am not much of a drinker, but consider myself as more a “beer taster”. At home, you will find a selection of beers. I like to experiment and experience different tastes, especially beers that I haven’t tried before.
What is your favourite ever beer?
One of those tricky questions! I don’t have one specific beer that I would describe as my “favourite ever” but I have favourite beer styles - well brewed Weiss, Saison or Trappist Ale. Now, I am also enjoying beers made with local African ingredients.
What sparked your love of food and drink?
When I trained and worked at SAB, we made the beers consumers are well familiar with. In 2011, while still at SAB, I was exposed to the craft beer industry and got to brew and experiment with various beer styles. It was at that point in my life as a brewer that I got exposed to beer as more than just something to be drunk on a Friday night to get inebriated on. I grew to appreciate beer and all the diverse styles - the different flavours one gets, the food/beer pairings that enhance your drinking experience.
Where are you happiest?
I am happiest when I am at home surrounded by family, loved ones and friends.
What makes you unhappy?
What makes me unhappy is people that don’t have respect nor regard for other people, their lives or their feelings. Seeing the current politics within our country and the alarming abuse towards women and children.
Best and worst thing about the brewing industry?
Best thing about our industry must be the people. We are very a tight-knit community that is open, friendly and very helpful. The worst thing about the industry now is the many people getting in wanting to make a quick buck and producing beer of lesser quality.
What’s your greatest vice?
Sarcasm. I am known by those close to me for making comments or passing jokes that those who don’t really know me may get offended by.
Do you feel that you are treated differently because you are a woman?
Interestingly, as much as our industry is more male dominated with very few women involved, I honestly haven’t received any prejudice because I am a woman. I feel I receive the same if not slightly more respect because I am a woman. What I have realized is that people respect you more when you know your stuff and command that respect without being arrogant.
Best advice you ever got? From whom?
“You are stronger than you think you are”. Advise received from my mother.
President Zuma has finally (completely) lost the plot and is confiscating all the alcohol in South Africa to fill his cellar at Nkandla – you can keep a single bottle from your collection. Which bottle would you save? Why?
I would save a Loxton Lager, which is a lager brewed with honey, buchu and fynbos herbs. I would save this bottle to showcase what great products one can make using the indigenous African ingredients.
What is your idea of brewing brilliance?
My idea of brewing brilliance is when one has found the balance between the art and science of brewing.
Where would you like to see brewing in South Africa going and growing over the next decade?
I would like to see the overall industry continue to grow, I would like to see more women being part of this great industry of ours, I would like to see more black brewers also getting involved and I would like to see African brewers showcasing to the world our own unique and special way of brewing and great products we can make.
Who would you invite to your dream dinner party? What would you cook?
I would have my parents, my husband, brother, sister and my close friends, as they have always been there for me through everything and supporting me. I would also invite Thabo Mbeki and Kofi Anan to pick their brains on what they feel solution is to drive African prosperity. I would invite the late Graham Mackay, SABMiller ex CEO and Chairman. He had the vision of taking SAB into a global market and it became the second biggest brewer by volume in the world. I would invite a few people from SAB who have helped pave my career and laid the foundation to the brewer I am today. I would also invite a few people I have met through my journey who, till this day, still help stay on the path with a clear vision of where I want to be.
What would you like to achieve in the next ten years?
I would like to grow my training company – Brewster’s Craft and become the leading brewing training provider in Africa and not only represent South Africa but the rest of Africa, showcasing all the wonderful things we have on offer to the global brewing community.
Who would you point out as a up and coming tastemaker in South Africa?
One of the ladies I mentor - and future Brewmaster - Palesa Mohale. She’s still finishing off her BSc Honours Degree and already brewing and presenting sorghum beer in a manner that is more appealing in taste to the youth and wider community by creating cocktails and flavourings.
Any advice for the young planning on going out on their own in the South Africa?
Like any other business, our industry is not easy. My advice to anyone going on their own is to have loads of resilience, patience and passion. The road ahead won’t be easy but will be all worth it in the end.