Anatomy of Wine: Esters - wine’s own perfume

Wednesday, 19 March, 2014
Elona Hesseling, WineLand
Esters are the aromatic, fruity compounds in wine, formed during fermentation, malolactic fermentation (MLF) and ageing. There are many factors that influence the types and quantities of esters present and although all of them are not positive contributors, as a group, they are a major constituent of wine.

Esters are the aromatic, fruity compounds in wine, formed during fermentation, malolactic fermentation (MLF) and ageing. There are many factors that influence the types and quantities of esters present and although all of them are not positive contributors, as a group, they are a major constituent of wine.

Research has identified 11 different esters in grape juice, but wine can have up to 83; this affects the wine’s flavour and complexity in proportion to their presence. Esters are formed when an acid reacts with alcohol, eliminating a water molecule in the process.

With the many different acids and alcohols found in wine, there is considerable potential for the formation of a wide range of esters. The alcohol in the reaction can be ethanol, or any other alcohol produced by yeast cells, especially from the degradation of amino acids.

In wine, esters can be classified into two groups: those formed enzymatically and those formed during wine ageing, through a chemical esterification between alcohol and acids at a low pH.

Esters can furthermore be grouped into two classes, namely ethyl esters and acetate esters. The ethyl esterscomprise a short-chain alcohol group (ethanol) and a longer-chain acid group (such as medium- to long-chain fatty acids). Ethyl esters have a strong influence on a wine’s aroma and examples of ethyl esters are ethyl hexanoate, with reported aroma characteristics that include fruity, strawberry, green apple and anise; ethyl octanoate, with sweet, fruity, ripe fruit, burned and beer characteristics; and ethyl decanoate, which imparts an oily, fruity and floral character.

The acetate esterscomprise an acid group (short-chain acetic acid) and a longer-chain alcohol group (fusel alcohols), mostly complex alcohols derived from amino acid metabolism. This group includes esters such as isoamyl acetate, with aromas of banana and fruits; and isobutyl acetate, with fruity and apple flavours.

Ethyl acetate is quantitatively the most prominent ester in wine, due to its spontaneous or enzymatic formation from ethanol and acetic acid – it is therefore both an acetate and/or ethyl ester.

Ethanol and acetate are present in wine in relatively large concentrations; ethyl acetate is therefore often an important contributor to wine aroma. At low concentrations it may give desirable and fruity character to the wine; however, at higher concentrations it can impart a solvent or nail varnish aroma, and contribute to the perception of volatile acidity (VA).

Ester formation

Esters are typically synthesised in grapes, but rarely in amounts that are of sensory significance. Isoamyl acetate, the commonly detected banana and fruity character in Pinotage, is one exception, while the synthesis of ethyl 9-hydroxynonanoate by Botrytis cinerea may contribute to the distinctive aroma of botrytised wines.

The formation of esters during fermentation is a dynamic process, with numerous variables interacting, affecting ester production and concentration. These variables include the quantity of esters or their precursors originally present in the grape; the temperature of fermentation; the yeast strain that predominates; and the nutrients present, especially nitrogen compounds and must solids. Grape cultivars also differ considerably in terms of ester content.

Malolactic fermentation (MLF) can furthermore impact the ester profile of a wine. The aroma compound that is mostly produced during MLF is ethyl lactate (ethyl 2-hydroxypropanoate), which is characteristically milky, soapy, buttery and fruity. The production of this ester is coupled to lactic acid formation and its synthesis can be correlated with the percentage of degradation of malic acid.

During fermentation, significant modifications in composition takes place, this is then followed by ageing when chemical constituents generally react slowly in order to move to their equilibrium position, resulting in gradual changes in flavour.

During bottle ageing, hydrogen ions – which are found in higher concentration in low pH wines – serve as a catalyst in the formation of esters. However, these hydrogen ions also encourage esters to split back into acids and alcohols. These two counterbalancing acts gradually move a wine closer to equilibrium, where there are equal parts of alcohol, acids, esters and water.

During this period, the ester-influenced bouquet of the wine constantly changes due to the concentration, formulation and splitting of different esters. This is partly why a wine will have one set of aromas when it is young and other aromas later in its life.

The importance of yeast strain

Along with other sensory important compounds, esters can be produced as secondary metabolites by many yeast species during fermentation.It is clear that yeast and bacteria have the ability to alter a wine’s volatile composition – specifically the profile of esters – which emphasises the importance of strain choice inwinemaking on the ester profile of the finished product.

The precise yeast strain used during fermentation and the fermentation temperature are two of the most important indicators of the types of esters that will develop. While this helps to partially explain why Chardonnay grown in the same vineyard, but made by two different producers, could have different aromatics, indigenous yeasts can impart distinct regional characteristics to wine which are integral to their authenticity.

Effects of esters

Esterolytic activity during wine production has the potential to either increase or decrease the amount of esters present and therefore its perceived quality.

The ester-associated aroma profile not only depends on the esters involved, but also on the compounds freed by the esterases, for example fatty acids and higher alcohols.

When esters are formed, a water molecule is released in the process, which binds to hydrogen ions. This effectively raises the wine’s pH, softens and mellows it (maturation), gives off fruity aromas and, at a later stage, imparts more developed bouquets.

In fermented beverages such as wine and beer, esters are frequently found in trace amounts. Individually, they are often below the aroma threshold concentrations, while collectively they generally do not exceed concentrations of 100 mg/l.

In low concentrations, these compounds are perceived as generically fruity or floral and can boost the awareness of these characteristics of the grape cultivar. However, if they are present in too high a concentration, they can mask the other varietal aromas and impart a synthetic fruit or fruit-candy aroma to the wine, decreasing its complexity.

Although ethyl acetate provides the familiar fruity character to young wine, it is a product of ethanol reacting with volatile acetic acid – at higher concentrations, this produces the pickled, vinegary aroma associated with volatile acid spoilage. Wines that generally contain more than 90 mg/L of ethyl acetate or 200 mg/L of total esters are considered to be faulty.

Esters are the most commonly encountered functional groups in wine and these complicated compounds have an important impact on the flavour and complexity of a wine. They are influenced by each other, other compounds and external factors, but although they are considered the perfume of wine, they aren’t always perceived positively.

SA LAW

Flavourants of vegetable origin or extracts thereof, as well as flavourants that are nature-identical may not be added to wine.

This, as stipulated by the Liquor Products Act 60 of 1989.

Sources:

• Cape Wine Academy

• Wikipedia

http://enologyaccess.orgDiagnostic Key Classes of Off-Character Compounds Esters

• www.elsevier.com/locate/foodchem: Microbial modulation of aromatic esters in wine:Current knowledge and future prospects

Wine Science: Principles and applications (third edition); by Ronald S. Jackson.