From pillar to host: A quest for good wine

Thursday, 8 August, 2013
Mail & Guardian, Tim James
Stellenrust makes great wines at good prices, one of which is a beautiful blonde with brains and personality.
An immoderate number of pillars announce the main stone building at Stellenrust Wine Estate. On a gentle rise among the vineyards, with the Stellenbosch mountains staring loftily down, they stand in serried ranks, ushering the visitor to the door.

Perhaps it only seems so many because most of them support nothing: they were originally intended to be more functional, I believe, but it was realised that the splendid views might get spoilt. The prospect is rather handsome, but more grandly Graeco-Egyptian than one expects in the land of whitewashed gables.

More to the point are those vineyards and the wines they produce. I cannot immediately think of any producer - let alone a Stellenbosch one - offering such a large range of good, serious wines at prices that you'd think would have people stampeding past those pillars.

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