When to drink South African Weisser/Rhine Riesling?
Wednesday, 16 November, 2011
Kristina B, CWM
The gentil aromatique, as the grape is also called, has more charm and as much ageability as any Bordeaux wine.
This fact may irritate Bordeaux drinkers, but there is no reason to fight: the Riesling grape used to get as much attention and even better prices in the 20th century than the renowned claret wines.
Today, after a long absence, it has established its own pedestal of popularity. There are associations, clubs, internet sites, well-known wineries, world-wide dedicated competitions, blogs and even magazines all based on Weisser/Rhine Riesling. It has its own dedicated following, and some of the most respected names in the wine industry, like Financial Times wine writer Jancis Robinson, are dedicated fans.
One of the reasons sophisticated wine drinkers love Riesling is that it is often a very subtle wine, yet it tends to have great elegance and an interesting mixture of different aromas. Its subtlety is what makes it so adaptable and flexible with food; it's a great all-round companion rather than a wine where you have to be a little bit carefull about your wine and food pairing.
Its subtlety also means it is refreshing and adds a tang to food. While chardonnays, for example, can be delicious, they can easily overwhelm some delicate food types, especially if the wine is wooded. You seldom get that problem with Rieslings, although you do have to be aware that Rieslings can be made into sweet wines.
In South Africa the recent changes in our wine laws have allowed the customer more insight into what grape variety is actually in the bottle. This is especially true for Riesling.
Since the 2010 harvest all producers have to classify their Riesling wines into the international standards: the Crouchen Blanc grape can no longer just be named Riesling, but may be named Crouchen or Cape Riesling and Weisser/Rhine Riesling may just be named Riesling or by its entire name. This law has drawn a wide range of comments, but it is generally acknowleged to be right because it creates more transparency and allows end users to make their own choices.
The lamentable part is that it has not apparently enticed more wine drinkers to buy either grape varieties: the Wine and Spirits Board, in the year 2000, certified 918 000 litres of Crouchen and in 2007 only 528 000 litres. The same applies to Weisser/Rhine Riesling: from 1 300 000 litres in 2000 to a bare 417 000 litres in 2007. The John Platter 2011 consoles us by recording that Riesling makes up a steady 0.29% of the national vineyards of South Africa. There are about 17 brands or producers in South Africa.
A Riesling, whether steely dry, off-dry, medium-dry or sweet can make excellent drinking in summer and in winter. Here is a quick review for the South African wine drinker:
A good bone dry, (in South Africa to a maximum of 5g/l residual sugar), leaner, mineral Riesling is an excellent food accompaniment , and many Sauvignon Blanc and Chablis lovers would find a real alternative in these wines. Other Rieslings are bone dry, yet complex and rich in texture, again presenting a good partner to an array of delicious dishes.
An off-dry or semi-dry Riesling (between 5-12g/l residual sugar) normally makes easy drinking and introduces new wine drinkers to the fun side of wine, with some fruity sweetness. Semi-sweet Rieslings, with sugars between 5 and 30g/l make interesting drinking with oriental foods, or partnered with cheese or even foie gras. In South Africa off-dry to semi-sweet is a larger category than the dry Riesling category. The Veritas 2011 awards will show you some lovely wines in the Gold, Silver and Bronze category.
With Noble Late Harvest Rieslings, with residual sugars from 20g/l, easily going up to240g/l, you are in for a treat with your desserts and cheeses. Often a Riesling offers a distinct frame of acidity, which is very pleasant in comparison to some of the cloying sweetness in other noble late harvests.
Last but not least, there are older Riesling wines worth trying: the wine’s natural acidity, aromas and flavours make it especially suitable for cellaring. It is said that sweeter wines, with higher sugars can be aged up to 30 years. In our recent Old Mutual competition a 12 year old Riesling won a Trophy in the Rhine Riesling category ... or try some imported German Rieslings.
There is absolutely no reason not to try a Riesling: you now know what’s in the bottle, and most wines are not overpriced. There is only one other wish you may have: is the wine dry, off-dry, semi-sweet? Fortunately some South African winemakers comment on the nose and palate of the wine, on the back label. If winemakers would apply an international standard like that of the Riesling Foundation, in using a Riesling Taste Profile, then we would be on our way to more transparency and delicious drinking.