Cover crops between vineyards at Org de Rac Wine Estate, Piketberg. Photo: Org de Rac
In the brave new world of wine "mindful consumption", a term of Buddhist origin, is the new mantra. A new generation of savvy millennial consumers shows as much interest in what goes into the wine, from vine and soil to cellar, as the actual wine in the bottle. The new green wine conversation focuses on organic wine, wellness, provenance, sustainability, biodynamics, environmentally-friendly values, lighter weight bottles, the carbon footprint, Fairtrade labour – and on the integrity of wine labels.
Opening a bottle of no added sulphur/sulfites wine (under 10mg per litre by law) always sparks a debate and amazement over what goes into wine besides grapes – and what non-organic additives are allowed by law. While wine labels in South Africa must specify "contains sulfites" (if added, permissible levels range up to 150 mg/per litre and upwards depending on sugar levels and wine style), most organic wine tend to contain lower sulphur levels – down to no added sulfites.
Even organic wines are not sulphur-free as residual sulfites remain from the vineyard and winemaking process. But certified organic wines made from certified organic vineyards – standards vary from country to country and within EU/US/UK markets – are generally free from the use of pesticides and chemical fertilisers in the vineyards, and generally free from additives, commercial yeasts, non-organic fining agents (albumen and isinglass) and preservatives in the cellar. Not all organic wines are vegan (if egg, casein, gluten or beeswax is used) – but many are. Most standard wines are not vegan.
That’s enough of organics 101. I apologise if I’ve glossed over any finer points which different certification systems make to distinguish organic vineyards from organic wines, organic from non-organic wines, or biodynamic from organic wines. It gets confusing – and very technical. Over the last two decades, at tastings of pioneering organic cellars – inter alia Avondale, Lazanou, Longridge, Org de Rac, Reyneke Wines, Spier, Stark-Conde, Upland, Waterkloof, and Waverley Hills – winemakers have emphasised the need for sustainability from vine to wine – and to nourish soil for mono-viticulture.
Organic vineyard at Reyneke Wines, Stellenbosch. Photo: Reyneke Wines
Some winemakers have also argued that wines do not need sulphur as a preservative to ensure the longevity of wine – the natural tannins from grape-skins and oak can also play a role. I’m looking at a bottle of wine right now which ticks all the boxes. Made by veteran winemaker Frank Meaker (who spent a decade making organic wines at Org de Rac), Canetsfontein's Cliffhanger Organic Red is also no sulphur added, certified eco- and vegan-friendly. I tasted it at the Go Wellington launch in late 2024 with other organic wines and brandies from Upland’s organic distillery, Jacaranda, and others.
Founded in 2020, Kusafiri Organic Wines is a small family-owned winery on the foot of the Paardeberg which epitomises the new organic ethos. Kusafari (Swahili for journey) specializes in making organic, no-sulfur-added, vegan-friendly wine. Their brand credo is "We are passionate about making great, environmentally friendly wines at affordable prices. We’re one of the few cellars making no-sulphur-added wines in South Africa, and the only one focusing on this winemaking style."
Kusafiri Organic Wines is a South African organic wine producer with both USDA Organic and EU Organic certification, which means they meet the strictest standards for producing organic wines. There is a big difference between wines made with organic grapes and organic wine certified by the USDA Organic Certification (NOP). Wines produced with certified organically-grown grapes still have added sulfites, but organic wines in the USA have to have less than 10 ppm of naturally-occurring sulfites. Organic wine in the USA also have to be made in certified USDA cellars.
"This type of certification requires a third-party inspection of both the vineyards and the winemaking facility. All of our grapes are non-GMO, and grown without the use of conventional pesticides, synthetic fertilizers or any chemicals deemed harmful to the environment. We aim to have minimal intervention during the winemaking process in our certified organic winemaking facility. Our philosophy prohibits the use of colour, gluten, flavour, and non-organic additives and preservatives."
The launch of Organic Wines South Africa in September 2024 by a dozen leading organic and biodynamic wine producers is a milestone in the growth of sustainability in South Africa viticulture. Founding members include Avondale, Joostenberg, Lazanou, Longridge, Noble Hill, Org de Rac, Reyneke Wines, Sophie Germanier, Spier, and Stark-Conde.
[Other top local organic brands in South Africa include Audacia, Waterkloof, and Woolworths. The latter's bestselling wine in their organic range is made by Stellar Winery, the largest producer of certified organic Fairtrade wines in South Africa (and the largest producer of no sulphur added wines in the world). The wine is packaged in box, can, and bottle.]
Chairperson Alex Dale of Radford Dale in Elgin comments, "With Organic Wines South Africa, we aim to lead the charge in sustainability, especially within viticulture. In South Africa, it is estimated that there are between 24 and 36 organic wineries today, counting for only a small fraction of total production, below 1%. As we lag behind the more advanced global wine regions, there is a significant opportunity to be seized." As South Africa's top international markets – UK, Germany, and the USA – are already major consumers of organic wine, the potential for growth is substantial.
Alex adds that to maintain transparency, the association will limit its membership to certified organic and biodynamic wine producers. He says "greenwashing" – the false promotion of sustainability – remains prevalent in many sectors, including wine. OWSA intends to ensure clarity and authenticity in member practices – and will develop progressive tiers of sustainability to promote inclusiveness.
Organic vineyards in winter at Radford Dale, Elgin. Photo: Radford Dale
Globally, organic vineyards now make up 8.4% of total vineyards, a significant rise from 1.4% in 2005. In the EU, more than 10% of all agriculture is organic. With global sales of organic wine growing by 145% from 2012 to 2022, this trend is expected to accelerate from an estimate $10,8 billion in 2023. The global organic wine market is projected to reach $21.48 billion by 2030, growing at a rate of 10.4% annually (Source: Research and Markets).
According to Horizon Grand View Research, the South Africa organic wine market generated a revenue of US$ 140.2 million in 2023 and is expected to reach US$ 273 million by 2030, growing by 10% from 2024 to 2030. Red organic wine was the largest and most lucrative segment in 2023 registering the fastest growth. South Africa accounted for 1.3% of the global organic wine market in 2023. Germany is expected to lead the global market in terms of revenue by 2030 (HGVR, 2023).
The IWSR reports that global sales of organic wine have grown from 29 million cases in 2012 to 71 million cases in 2022 (+145%) and are said to be in an exponential growth phase. Sales of non-organic wine over this period fell from 2.4 billion cases to 2.06 billion cases (-14.2%) and continue to decline. Europe dominates the organic wine market, thanks to favourable climates and strong consumer awareness. Countries like Germany, France, and Italy lead the charge, driven by growing health consciousness and sustainability concerns.
Enough statistics, though. In an illuminating column by Sophie Arundel (The Drinks Business, 14 January 2025, who runs the green awards every year), Millennials, the driving force behind the surge in organic wine demand, are embracing products as part of their "less but better" purchasing ethos:
"Both InsightAce and IWSR highlight a key factor: younger consumers view organic wines as being of higher quality and more aligned with their values compared to older generations. In markets like the US, UK, and Australia, Millennials are the most engaged demographic, associating organic wines with premium quality and sustainability. This sentiment resonates particularly strongly in the US, where 30% of Millennial wine drinkers link organic wines with high quality – a perception shared across other major wine markets."
Organic and biodynamic wine is also becoming a new tourist drawcard at leading Cape wine cellars. Avondale, a pioneering biodynamic producer, offers an eco-safari around the organically certified farm where visitors have a hands-on experience of its credo "terra est vita (earth is life)" down to the flock of ducks patrolling the vineyards for pests – as well as a tasting and tour of its gravity-fed cellar.
Spier Wine Farm, a landmark winery in Stellenbosch where sustainability and "growing for good" are the watchword, converted all its vineyards to organic production over the last two decades. In December 2024, Spier opened The Soil Room where visitors can learn about the biodiversity, indigenous species, healthy eco-systems and regenerative farming practices of this WWF Conservation Champion. It also offers a garden-to-glass tasting of the certified organic wines it launched over the last decade: Farmer Angus, First Stone, Yellowwood, and Good Natured – paired to home-grown organic farm fare.
Spier has its own dedicated organic winemaker, Tania Kleintjes, a key member of its team. Spier cellarmaster Johan Jordaan says, "Making organic wines is in keeping with Spier's ethically, environmentally and socially conscious farming philosophy in which we harness the goodness of nature in ways that are kind to the earth. We view the farm as one living ecological system. The vines are just one part of this complex web of relationships between plants, animals, and microbes in the soil. Our role is to work with nature's rhythms, bit by bit, grape by grape, hand by hand."
Angus McIntosh, who has spearheaded the conversion to biodynamic and organic production at Spier since 2009, comments on the launch of his new organically-certified wines: "Regenerative agriculture is my life's work. I believe all health stems from the soil. These organic wines are the culmination of a long-term partnership with the Spier team to farm in true harmony with nature."
"What sets these wines apart is not only their quality but their truly holistic approach to farming. The grapes are organically farmed and supported by biodynamic practices throughout the process. The grapes are grown without synthetic herbicides, fungicides, pesticides, or fertilisers. Instead, the team promotes soil vitality through composting and natural pest remedies."
The devil is in the detail when it comes to going green in viticulture.
Angus McIntosch, aka "Farmer Angus", among the chickens on Spier Wine Farm, Stellenbosch. Photo: Spier