In June 2017, the Consejo Regulador DOCa Rioja unveiled a new classification framework that caused more than a few raised eyebrows in cellars across the region. After much campaigning and controversy, Rioja embraced the creation of a ‘Viñedos Singulares’ designation.
Yet Rioja was hardly a trailblazer in this respect. Inspired by Burgundy’s success in turning vineyard names into global luxury assets, several European regions had already codified their finest single vineyards, most notably in Germany, Austria and Piedmont.
The logic was reasonable enough: if consumers could be taught that a particular parcel or site was expressing a unique identity, those wines would command greater recognition and, ultimately, justify higher prices. But has the strategy delivered measurable commercial returns? Or has Europe’s pursuit of ever-greater geographical precision proved more influential within the trade than among consumers?
Economic value
“The economic value of Viñedos Singulares should be understood in both direct and wider terms,” says Consejo Regulador DOCa Rioja president Raquel Pérez Cuevas. “At a direct level, it gives producers a framework to differentiate their most distinctive vineyard sites and to support premium positioning through a regulated, quality-led designation.
“At a broader level, the category contributes to the value of Rioja as a whole by reinforcing the message that the region is not only defined by ageing categories, but also by vineyard diversity, old vines and distinctive terroirs.”
She argues that judging the initiative solely through sales figures misses the point. “Its role is more strategic – strengthening Rioja’s premium credentials over time.”
The Rioja single-vineyard question, and its quest for greater recognition and value, is central to the wider debate. When discussing vineyard classifications, many advocates frame them primarily as strategic and educational tools, assuming that greater prestige will naturally flow from tighter geographical precision. However, remarkably few stakeholders can point to commercial evidence. Average bottle prices, export value, land appreciation or demonstrable pricing premiums directly attributable to vineyard classifications remain elusive.
Not about copying Burgundy
“Many European regions embraced single-site frameworks partly in the hope of replicating Burgundy’s ability to command higher prices and prestige,” observes Imre Somogyi, assistant head sommelier at The Ritz, London. “And, while I don’t think it was misguided, I do think it should never have been about copying Burgundy.
“Burgundy’s vineyard hierarchy developed organically over centuries and is deeply embedded in both history and consumer understanding. But, in my experience, the impact [of the proliferation of single-vineyard frameworks] has been much stronger within the trade than among consumers. Sommeliers, buyers and collectors appreciate the additional level of precision, because it allows us to communicate terroir more effectively and curate more focused wine lists.
Luxury depends upon perceived difference. Yet wine faces a unique challenge: unlike a watch or supercar, the value proposition is largely invisible. To many consumers, Benjamin Romeo’s Contador might look, smell and taste the same as a sub-£10 bottle of Rioja, label differences aside.
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