At a glance, one may be forgiven for thinking that the Western Cape is nothing short of a viticultural paradise.
The gently undulating vine-draped hills stretch for miles, accented by dramatic mountainous ridges and ocean vistas. However, recent years have proven increasingly difficult, with mounting pressure from multiple years of drought and dramatic wildfires leading to loss of crops and reduced yields.
In light of this, producers are looking to new varieties that can better deal with such conditions. Is South Africa undergoing a change of identity as a wine-producing nation?
South Africa's viticultural history dates back to the mid-17th century yet, until the mid 1990s, more than two-thirds of grapes grown were destined for brandy production. International boycott of South African apartheid and trade isolationism further damaged the country's reputation as a wine-producing nation. Despite this, post-Apartheid South Africa experienced a renaissance in winemaking. Producers honed their focus on quality, with stricter fruit selection, careful winemaking, and long maturation in high-quality oak.
Viticulture has also seen a reversal in trends, with more than 85 percent of grapes grown now going into wine production. Chenin Blanc is still the most widely planted variety but is now more commonly made in a richer, barrel-fermented style that can stand on par with its Loire Valley counterparts, while cooler sites have proven their worth for reputable Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Cap Classique sparkling. Similarly, the country is now famed for Cape and Bordeaux blends, as well as age-worthy Syrah, with wines such as Meerlust's Rubicon, Vergelegen's V, and Porseleinberg quickly establishing themselves as classics on the international market.
South Africa has also seen the emergence of new wave winemakers such as Eben Sadie, Donovan Rall, and Adi Badenhorst. Moving away from estate-style production, these winemakers have capitalised on the country's viticultural history, rediscovering old-vine vineyards in regions such as Swartland, capable of producing wines with incredible complexity. In many instances, these winemakers have favoured a fresher and more restrained style of wine, with maturation in neutral vessels such as concrete eggs and amphorae allowing the quality of the fruit to stand out. The excitement generated by such wines suggests that the South African wine scene is already evolving at a rapid pace.
The challenges
Despite its comparatively recent establishment on the international market, South Africa's vinous identity has already been under threat. In recent years, the country has had to bear the brunt of climate change, with agriculture and viticulture facing particularly severe climatic pressure. Culminating in the Cape Town Water Crisis of 2015-2020, consecutive hot and dry summers saw water infrastructure pushed to its limit, with water levels in dams supplying the region dropping to as low as 14 percent of their total capacity.
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