Do you know what must is? Must is fermenting grapes juice and one of the wonderful products of the wine grape harvest that does not only have a rich history but is also a versatile seasonal ingredient in many recipes – even in the modern-day kitchen. It has been a popular ingredient in cooking since ancient times and it was probably the French Huguenots who brought the “recipe” to South Africa. Except for being used as an ingredient in must jam and mosbolletjies, must is also used in savoury and meat dishes.
Probably first used as an ingredient for bread and rusks in a wine-producing country such as Germany or France, one of the earliest references to bread baked with must is during the reign of King Edward I (1272-1307). In South Africa mosbolletjies are often eaten fresh with butter or dried as rusks. Traditionally, it was served fresh with black coffee early in the morning – similar to the French tradition of serving black coffee and croissants.
Before modern preserving methods, jam was an important way to preserve the sweetness of fruit and must jam was probably the first form of jam made by men. A jar of must jam found in the tomb of the Egyptian king Tutankhamun (ruled ca. 1332 BC – 1323 BC in the conventional chronology) serves as proof!
The popular brioche-style mosbolletjies with their delightful aniseed kick are available from the La Motte Bakery from Tuesday to Sunday and can be ordered for breakfast as our Harvest Time French Toast (here's a recipe to try at home!). Mosbeskuit or rusks made from mosbolletjies are also available and is a delight with your first cup of the day.
The La Motte Spens also offers a variety of harvest-inspired treats. Have you tried moskonfyt (must syrup)? It is such a decadent drizzle over buttered toast! Must syrup or jam is made by simmering unfermented grape juice for hours to reduce it into a sweet syrup. It differs a little from Vino Cotto, which uses fermented grape juice in its reduction.
Vino Cotto is dark, concentrated and highly caramelized and a popular ingredient in many kitchens. It is delicious with most meats and vegetables and works well in sauces. Squeeze over a creamy risotto, drizzle over a variety of cheeses, fruit and yogurt, top your favourite ice-cream, waffles or French toast and even used it in the place of honey or syrup in recipes. Do try our recipe for duck in sweet and sour sauce.
Also keep an eye out for our sultana grape jam – the perfect partner with matured cheddar on a cheese board and another seasonal favourite, raisin biscotti with moskonfyt drizzle – an alternative coffee dipper!