Historically, winemakers have selected barrels by the source of their wood, but a coopering revolution is underway, offering fine winemakers a host of new tools to perfect their blends.
Roger Oferil, winemaker for Priorat producer Merum Priorati, told the drinks business that it’s more crucial than ever “to maintain a dialogue with your barrel supplier”, who can lend their expertise to help create a bespoke result for your specific wine. “We can help each other,” he said.
A leading expert in the vinification of Grenache, Oferil revealed he recently began ageing his Grenache wines “in a white barrique”, which was raising eyebrows in the Catalan region.
“I’m looking to integrate the oak, not achieve high toasted aromas, and Grenache is better in a white barrique,” he said.
According to Oferil, “in the past we used to buy barriques based on the forest. Limousin, Tronçais, Allier etc. Now I prefer to buy by producer style.”
Cherry picking
The unique style or stamp of a cooperage is increasingly achieved through the blending of different forests in one barrique. Just as a winemaker adjusts the percentage of each grape variety used in a blend, barrel makers are adjusting their own proportions: “1% of this forest, 1% of that forest,” Oferil explained.
Limousin oak, for example, is known for its ability to impart high levels of structural tannins and spicy notes of cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and pepper, along with woody depths of leather and tobacco. Tronçais oak, on the other hand, is known for its very fine grain, which allows for a gradual and controlled release of tannins and flavour compounds, resulting in a more subtle and refined contribution to the wine.
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