Zinfandel has had a bit of a rough reputation in recent decades. First, as a medium-sweet blush pink wine in the 1980s, then later an inky and oaky Cabernet-imposter come the turn of the century, before being demoted to a red wine blender to bulk up volume.
But now, California’s longest produced varietal is adopting yet another identity, and it might be the most exciting iteration of the varietal yet.
“There is a time when Zinfandel is what we need,” said Turley Wine Cellars winemaker and founding member of the Historic Vineyard Society, Tegan Passalacqua, during a panel at the Old Vine Conference on 3 Nov. in Lodi, California. And that time appears to be now, according to Passalacqua and other industry experts. “It’s a comfort wine, a wine that just feels friendly.”
Zinfandel might have been prematurely removed from California winemaking spotlight, but it’s back and ready to meet consumers where they are, both in profile and price point.
Red wine continues to struggle both in the on- and off-premise, according to NIQ data scan, but there does appear to be renewed interest in Zinfandel and other unique varietals. In the 52 weeks ended Sept. 9, CGA by NIQ reported on-premise sales of Zinfandel were up less than 1% compared to last year; meanwhile, sales of “tried and true” varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir were all down.
The data may not be a clear indication of a trend, but a slew of recent publications, features, and recognition certainly suggests that Zinfandel is on the up-and-up.
Zinfandel, interrupted
This is far from the first time California has experienced a Zinfandel boom. The first was in the latter half of the 19th century, after Zinfandel cuttings were brought to the Napa Valley and grafted onto existing Mission rootstock. Endorsed by some of the state’s earliest industry leaders, like Joseph Osborn, William Boggs, and Agoston Haraszthy, the varietal took off like wildfire.
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