Muratie Wine Estate, Stellenbosch.
Tucked away in the heart of the Knorhoek Valley – a mere 7 km outside of Stellenbosch – Muratie Wine Estate is one of the Cape’s oldest wine estates. Here, passion is at the heart of it all – whether it be in its rich history or in the Melck family’s continuous desire to protect a centuries-old wine experience that has become a drawcard for wine lovers from across the globe.
Merely arriving on the farm at the foot of the Simonsberg is an experience in its own, and with good reason: the old oaks and buildings from a bygone era reflect 340 years of existence. For Rijk – who’s been involved with the estate since 1987 and full-time custodian since 2005 – this year not only marks 340 years of Muratie, but also years of being driven by something more than wine.
His first encounter with Muratie was when he was still a doctor in the navy, visiting for a wine tasting with friends. Back then, the old cellar was in a bad state and Rijk couldn’t imagine why anyone would want to work in such a place, let alone make wine. Three or four months later, Alberta Annemarie Canitz phoned Rijk’s father, Ronald, saying the farm should return to the Melck family since they also owned it in 1763. “I never thought it would be such an honour for me to wave that flag,” Rijk says, thinking back. Today, he is grateful for the opportunity to contribute to the wine industry and to represent one of the older wine estates in the country.
Muratie's wine portfolio.
A time capsule waiting to be discovered
German soldier, Lourens Campher, was the first to arrive at Muratie. Ownership of the farm – then called De Driesprong – was granted to him by the then governor of the Dutch Cape Colony, Simon van der Stel in 1699. Some of the trees at Muratie date back to that time and up until this day, they protect and give wonderful shade in summer.
Further to these historic trees, Campher’s house is now an art gallery, while the old cellar – built in 1700 – also still stands. And, the tasting room has been kept exactly the way the Melcks had found it in 1987 – cobwebs and all. “People might forget the name, but they’ll say: ‘Oh, you’re talking about that wine estate with the cobwebs in the windows?’ It’s become a landmark,” says Rijk.
Muratie's tasting room, kept in the same state as which the Melcks found it in 1987.
A story worth telling and a wine worth sipping
Whether it be heritage on the ground or history in a bottle, Muratie Wine Estate offers various moments worth exploring as you sip their wines. It’s the beginning of Muratie and the story behind it that inspires its custodian most, though.
Ansela van de Caab was a slave woman who tended to the gardens in and around the Castle of Good Hope. This is where the soldier, Lourens Campher met her and where their love story started. For ten years, Lourens had to travel between Stellenbosch and Cape Town – either by foot or by ox wagon – to visit the enslaved Ansela. Finally emancipated after being baptised and learning to speak Dutch, she was able to move to Muratie and be with the man she loved. “It’s a story of hope, resilience and what can happen if you really believe in your dream,” Rijk says.
From the oak tree Lourens planted for Ansela, to Muratie’s Bourdeaux-style red blend that carries her name, there are many Ansela stories to be told and Rijk will always recommend the Ansela blend as a reflection of Muratie’s heritage.
Ansela van de Caab's house on Muratie.
This is not the only wine that’s been named after someone who’s helped shape Muratie into what it is today, though. “Each wine is named after an individual that left a lasting imprint on the farm,” Rijk says.
Ultimately, a wine tasting at Muratie is not only insightful, but also a historic tour.
Balancing history and modernism
When the Melcks returned to Muratie, Alberta Annemari’s only wish was that it would be farmed and respected as she and her father, George Paul Carnitz - an artist and lover of life - had farmed and respected it. She wasn’t taken on change and kept much of the farm and its practices the same. In fact, when her father passed away, she locked his art studio and his chapel and never went back in. Hence, Muratie was locked up in a time capsule, with no change until 1987. While that adds to Muratie’s charm today, some renewal had to happen when it came to the wines.
In the 1970s – even though the farm’s fortified wines were still popular – Muratie’s still wines darkened. The Melcks made quite a few changes to the cellar, adding new tanks and machinery, allowing them to revive the estate’s wines. They got rid of all the wine barrels and started with a fresh program with barrels sourced from France. And, while they use incredible machinery and knowledge, the land’s micro-climate – perfect for red grapes – also still works its magic.
“So, we use both the heritage winemaking processes, as well as more modernised techniques to produce these types of wines,” Rijk explains.
The road ahead
“If you think back, Lourens Campher had this whole mountain to choose where he wanted to build his home, and he specifically chose this area right next to the old Klippiesrivier…” Muratie’s custodian explains. “They knew nature, the weather, the climate and how to find shelter.” Campher and all those after him were protected from the elements, and the soil – thanks to the Simonsberg – is rich in minerals and very fertile. Even today – 340 years after Campher’s arrival – Muratie handles the soil the same way as back in the beginning.
Very aware of the effects of climate change, Rijk says they keep a close eye on their vineyards. They’ve also started planting other varieties to see how well they do in different climates. “We’re very surprised by some of the grapes we’ve planted and how well they’re doing,” he says. In addition, they’ve adapted some of their viticulture techniques with varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. “It’s good to know that the noble grape varieties are still doing so well.”
Serving simplicity
In the end, Rijk wants people to appreciate the energy of the farm, its old buildings and its majestic old oaks. Not to mention the world-class wines and the humble cuisine at the Farm Kitchen – which could be anything from lamb shank to freshly baked bread. These are the things that make Muratie what it is today and Rijk hopes to keep the wine estate’s identity alive, allowing it to thrive through storytelling and slow-sipping wines.
Ansela's ancient oak tree guarding over the Muratie Tasting Room.
Muratie hosts winemakers’ dinners, offering an intimate experience where you can truly immerse yourself in its heritage and the style of its wines. Towards the end of the year, they will also be hosting music concerts, supporting local musicians. They have recently released a special wine in celebration of its 340 years of existence. This limited-edition blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc – labelled The Story – encapsulates Muratie’s history perfectly.