Ask the average British wine drinker what they think of South African wine, and the response is likely to fall into one of two camps: it’s either a serviceable supermarket staple or, at best, a decent-value alternative to a French classic. Fine wine? Not quite. At least, that’s the perception – but it’s also completely wrong.
For centuries, South African wine has occupied a curious space in the global market. It has history – some of the oldest winemaking traditions in the New World. It has terroir – arguably some of the most diverse and exciting in the world. And it has winemakers producing wines that can compete with and in some cases surpass, those of Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne. Yet, despite all this, South African wine has struggled to shake off its reputation as a budget option rather than a fine wine destination.
With a new generation of ambitious winemakers and a shift in perception, this is beginning to change.
The origins of South African wine date back to the 17th century, when Dutch settlers planted the first vineyards at the Cape of Good Hope. By the 18th century, the region’s Vin de Constance was one of the most sought-after wines in Europe, gracing the tables of Napoleon and British royalty. Jane Austen prescribed it as a tonic for heartbreak.
But the 19th century saw the industry collapse under the weight of phylloxera (an aphid infestation that can destroy whole vineyards), British free trade with France and shifting economic fortunes. By the time South Africa re-entered the global wine market in the post-Apartheid era, it was effectively starting from scratch.
One of the biggest reasons South African wine deserves more recognition is its terroir. The country benefits from an incredible diversity of soils, microclimates and elevations, making it one of the most exciting wine-producing regions in the world.