Created by the crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsaut by Professor Abraham Izak Perold, Pinotage is a grape with a distinctly South African soul – one that is being embraced more dynamically and diversely than ever before.
Once misunderstood due to early winemaking missteps, Pinotage is now stepping confidently into the spotlight as a full-spectrum cultivar. Today, it speaks not with a single voice but with a chorus of expressions. From bold bush-vine reds to refined, terroir-driven wines, modern Pinotage showcases a wide stylistic range and a new generation of winemakers eager to explore its possibilities.
At the heart of this Pinotage renaissance is a commitment to authenticity, innovation, and a deep respect for place. Today’s producers craft expressive, site-driven wines that reflect South Africa’s diverse terroirs and the grape’s dual heritage in cellars from the Swartland to Stellenbosch and Wellington to Walker Bay. As Anri Truter of Beyerskloof reflects: “Pinotage was born in the right country. It reminds you of South Africans: resilient, adaptable, and proud. Certain Pinotages today can stand up to the world’s best wines.”
The many faces of Pinotage
Pinotage has shed the constraints of a singular style. Thanks to a better understanding of vineyard management and cellar technique, the variety now spans a wide spectrum – from juicy, fruit-forward wines to structured, age-worthy examples.
“Pinotage is very versatile,” says Marius Prins, production manager at Swartland Winery. “Our winemakers are tapping into their experience of the vineyard and cellar to bring out the best in the variety.”
At Wolf and Woman Wines, Jolandie Fouché approaches the grape with intention and care. “If you treat Pinotage with the necessary respect, it will return the gesture.” Her lower-alcohol expressive wines draw on both Pinot Noir’s elegance and Cinsaut’s charm – paying homage to its lineage while embracing a modern style.
Dirk Coetzee of L’Avenir in Stellenbosch agrees. “It may not be the easiest grape to manage, but when handled correctly, Pinotage can deliver wines of immense character with unbelievable purity of fruit. It’s about letting the grape and site speak.”
From hip wines with a fresh carbonic character to sophisticated rosés and classic aged reds, Cape blends, and even Cap Classiques, Pinotage today defies expectations. “We know what we get from our grapes,” Dirk says, “so we can develop different styles that appeal to a wide audience.”
Geography in a glass
One of Pinotage’s most exciting developments is how it captures the nuances of South Africa’s diverse terroirs.
“The area should speak in the wine,” says Pierre Wahl of Survivor Wines. “In cooler areas like Hemel-en-Aarde, you get Pinot Noir-like character. Granite soils bring perfuminess and minerality, while shale adds elegance and a cool-climate signature.”
Modern viticulture is helping to rewrite Pinotage’s story. Dirk explains: “I farm against different slopes – some bush vines, some trellised. Certain sites give me flintiness; others bring structure. My role is to blend these components into harmony.”
In his mind, a modern Pinotage is less extracted and made in a subtle, minimalistic way that truly reflects the site where the vineyard grows.
While Anri prefers bush vines for premium wines due to their thick skins and natural balance, trellised vineyards are proving ideal for producing lighter, everyday Pinotages. “The advantage of Pinotage,” he notes, “is that even bush vines are high-yielding, without compromising on quality.”
The sensitivity to place is echoed in the cellar. Cold soaking for gentle extraction, restrained use of new oak, and alternative vessels such as amphorae and concrete eggs are shaping more refined, terroir-transparent wines.
“New oak has its place,” says Wade Roger-Lund of Meerendal, “but it should support, not dominate. I prefer lower toast and larger barrels to preserve freshness.”
A legacy reimagined
As Pinotage celebrates 100 years, it’s no longer defined by the stereotypes of the past. Rather, it has become a symbol of persistence, creativity, and national pride.
The long-standing stigma of “burnt rubber” is fading fast. “Pinotage didn’t have a problem,” Jolandie insists. “It was the winemaking. Burnt rubber is a fault. Unfortunately, it became associated with the cultivar.”
Dirk agrees. “We’ve grown. We’ve realised our mistakes, and the recovery has been incredible. Twenty-five years ago, there were only a handful of great Pinotage sites. Today, there are dozens.”
Wade likens Pinotage’s journey to the national rugby revival.
“It deserves respect, like Rassie reviving the Boks. Pinotage belongs on the global stage.”
The transformation has been buoyed by international recognition. “Tim Atkin has been a real champion,” Jolandie notes. “And Clare Nesbitt at James Suckling listed a Pinotage at No. 23 out of the top 100 South African wines for 2024. That kind of recognition opens doors.”
Wade has seen firsthand just how age-worthy Pinotage can be. “The 1969, 1970, 1972, 1974, 1978, and 1982 vintages from Meerendal’s vinotique are still so fresh and alive. When you get a perfect cork and bottle, it’s magical.”
For Dirk, Pinotage’s story is personal. He calls it a variety with “a fighter’s instinct”. “I lost my dad when I was young and had to figure out a lot on my own. Pinotage is like that – it needs figuring out, exploration, and creativity. It may demand more tenacity than other varieties, but it rewards you in the end.”
And that exploration doesn’t stop at the cellar door. Nondumiso Pikashe of Ses’Fikile Wines encourages Pinotage to be interpreted through diverse cultural lenses.
“We come from different culinary environments, so our flavour associations differ. For me, as a Xhosa woman, Pinotage pairs beautifully with umngqusho, tripe, and vegetables. It adapts to any cuisine.”
Jolandie likens Pinotage to a family heirloom. “I’m someone who values things like a photograph from my grandfather or a teapot from my great-grandmother. That’s how I feel about Pinotage – it’s part of our heritage, rich with pride and emotion.”
A toast to the next century
As Pinotage enters its second century, it does so not as a novelty but as a proud ambassador of South African wine - a reflection of the land, the people, and their unyielding spirit.
“It’s our responsibility to share it with the world,” says Jolandie. “It’s like a koeksister, a melktert, the Springboks – it’s ours.”
For Nondumiso, Pinotage is a symbol of opportunity. “It’s uniquely ours. If it could talk, it would say: ‘I am proudly and boldly South African. I wouldn’t have wanted to be born anywhere else.’”
As we raise a glass to Pinotage’s first hundred years, we also look ahead – with imagination, reverence, and curiosity.
“Pinotage is a variety that inspires hope and a beautiful future for our multicultural, diverse, and scenic country,” says Nondumiso.
Let this be your invitation to revisit an old favourite, discover a new expression, or simply allow the story of South Africa’s most iconic wine to unfold in your glass. One sip at a time, Pinotage continues to surprise, seduce, and sing.
Here’s to the next century. Cheers.
For more information, contact the Pinotage Association: