Are traditional wine pairings a thing of the past?

Friday, 13 December, 2024
Swurl, Eric Asimov
Eric Asimov is renouncing traditional, formulaic food and wine pairings… should you do the same?

This article first appeared on Swurl - www.swurl.co - republished with thanks

Drinking wine was never meant to be a daunting intellectual exercise. In fact, wine’s sole purpose is to provide pleasure. And yet, selecting the correct bottle in a wine shop or a restaurant can intimidate even the most courageous souls — never mind the chore of correctly pairing wine to food.

In the realm of “pairings,” we’ve developed the idea that there’s always a right way to do things — which means, there are plenty of wrong ways, too. Conceptualizing pairings has become a minefield in which the fear of a faulty move provokes shame and embarrassment — and that’s one of the most damaging elements of American wine culture.

The truth is, pairing is simple. It’s hard to go wrong. Here’s the secret: Forget about violating sacred rules, or universal principles. With delicious food in front of you, a nice bottle, and good company, all will be well. And with that in mind, how did we get to a point where enjoying food and wine together became fraught with fear?

Thirty-five years ago, when I first joined the food department of The New York Times, a new book about pairing foods and wines was published, Red Wine With Fish: The New Art of Matching Wine With Food. The title was a playful heresy that turned the old rule, “white with fish, red with meat” on its head.

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