Sur-lie aging is an imperative step in Champagne production, though the nuances behind how it's done remain aplenty.
Recently, numerous Champagne producers have begun eschewing secondary fermentation/aging under crown capsules and replacing them with cork closures. Although costly – and labor intensive – for many, the decision to use corks is one worth pursuing, despite the up-front investment.
We spoke to three local vignerons about the intricacies of aging Champagnes under cork, as well as how doing so affects final wines.
The benefits of micro-oxygenation
Juliette Alpis, winemaker at Ludes-based Domaine Les Monts Fournois, chose to age her first batch of estate-produced Champagnes – which have yet to be released – under cork, thanks to the influence of her cousins' estate, Champagne Bérèche et Fils, which has been implementing the practice for multiple generations.
"The cork stopper allows micro-exchanges between the oxygen present in the air and the wine in the bottle," she explains, stating that the chemical reactions carried out during the wines' aging period will be significantly different from bottles aged without oxygen exposure. Alpis finds that these micro-exchanges with oxygen ultimately result in Champagnes with more aromatic complexity, as well as a finer mousse characterized by smaller bubbles.
Cédric Moussé, winemaker at Cuisles-based Champagne Moussé Fils, echoes this point, emphasizing that the quantity of gas exchange through cork aging is starkly different from that of a crown cap – and, moreover, this exchange changes over time.
"The cork is very tender in the beginning, so there is more gas exchange," he explains. Moussé notes that as time goes on, the corks become more like wood, and can ultimately provide a tighter closure than those provided by crown caps. "With crown caps, the [minimal] gas exchange is always the same."
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