Overview: Nature's raw power
What I love most about the Oldenburg Vineyards farm is its constant demonstration of nature's raw power. The team's profound love for nature is a common thread that binds us all, though for each of us it's a deeply personal connection. Last week, some guests commented to me as they were leaving that the view from the Tasting Room was outstanding and captivating. The view of the vineyards on Rondekop was brilliantly juxtaposed against the rugged mountain backdrop. They said they were truly captivated.
While the view is spectacular, what fascinates me most is the ability to watch and interact with nature. In September, the farm is always a hive of activity – everything is coming alive at a pace. Next to the Homestead, the lily pond plays home to the weaver birds showing off their incredible nesting skills. The males build, and the job is completed only when the nest is to their partner's satisfaction. Sometimes, they make as many as seven nests before "she" is happy!
September brings budburst – it's like the starting gun to the marathon that each vintage becomes. It is almost explosive as the tiny buds on the vine go from looking like old wood to briefly swelling, and these tiny leaves nearly grow in front of your eyes. I often walk the vineyards morning and evening, and I know that when I walk this evening, much would have happened from just a few hours earlier. The beauty of the vineyards in this season is truly inspiring.
Whilst the rain and cold of the past winter are on the wane and the sun's warmth begins to gather pace, the winds are now on the rise. We have had some pretty big south-easterlies over the past few weeks. The big winds are not pleasant! The Mistral in France is often said to make people crazy and having lived in Provence, I understand. However the Southeasters in the Cape can (in my opinion) be next level! Sometimes there will be damage to the new leaves on the vines, yet generally they are fine, and the damaged ones replace themselves almost immediately. Nature's ability to adapt can match the raw power of the winds.
The vines may be awakening in the vineyards, but the cover crops are fully grown and now flowering, making Rondekop even more spectacular. Some of the rows of barley and mustard are waist high. There will be plenty for the pigs to eat, but they will have to be patient. During the spring and summer, Christo will use the cover crops to compete with the vines and slow their vigour through competition for moisture. Given the wet winter, this will probably be the plan. If things dry out too much, the cover crops can be rolled flat to protect the soil's moisture levels. Finally, a little grazing will be allowed.
During the month, our head sommelier, Greg Lorimer, competed in the Best Young Sommelier of South Africa 2024, achieving a commendable 3rd place. The craft of wine service is taken very seriously in the country, and we are immensely proud of Greg for this fantastic achievement. In the Tasting Room, Greg runs a team of accomplished sommeliers who have excellent knowledge of all things wine, but to my mind the real gem is their individual and collective passion for telling the stories that bring it alive.
I am excited to introduce our guests to our Library Collection of back-vintage wines in the Tasting Room. Greg and Stefan have curated a selection of our past vintages, some of which are available in larger formats. The Library Collection is an integral part of our business and originates from our first-ever vintage, “Joshua”, the Maiden Vintage Syrah from 2007. At the time, I believed that wines are generally consumed too young and that ageing them brings the wonderful benefits of nuanced flavours that occur with time.
When one travels the full circle in wine, what makes it remarkable is that it begins as a way to work with nature, becoming an encapsulation of what Nature does best. The wine is specific to a place and from its birth in a vintage, it lives through time in barrel; then bottle; and, finally, the glass from which it is consumed.
Review: Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 jeroboam (5L)
For those eager to get ahead of the festive season rush, Stefan has uncovered something exceptional. Oldenburg Vineyards has bottled fewer than 50 “Jeroboams” in its history. A “jeroboam” refers to a Bordeaux variety bottled in a 5L format. As many are aware, larger formats take longer to mature, resulting in fresher profiles. Of the Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, only 5 bottles were ever produced in this size, making it a rarity.
The evolution of this wine is particularly intriguing. The flavours remain focused on dark fruit, with lively acidity providing a long, elegant finish. The tannins have softened over time, offering a range of food pairing options.
If you are seeking a true collector's item, this may well be the wine for you. Given its rarity, we are offering only two bottles at R12 275 each.
To place an order, please contact our private client sommelier, Stefan Reinmuth, at stefan@oldenburgvineyards.com. However, please be aware that availability is limited, and orders will be processed on a first-come, first-served basis.
Point of view: Even budbreak
As we make our way into Spring, the vineyard comes alive with beautiful young green buds. This period is known as budburst or budbreak, and budbreak, triggered by the rise in temperature, it is the first sign of new life after their winter dormancy. However, before we delve further into budburst, it’s important to understand the role of the winter dormancy in even budbreak.
To achieve maximum winter dormancy the vines need to gather a required number of cold units or chilling hours. It varies between cultivars but is usually several hundred hours below 10°C.
If the winter period is too warm, and the number of cold units too few, the vines react like most people do after a terrible night’s sleep – tired and a little confused. This ‘confusion’ can lead to uneven bud break – where some vines are still sleepy and dormant, while others are coming to life with new growth. As the vines continue to bud and grow, the ones that had an earlier start will grow stronger, while the sleepier one lag behind. This uneven growth pattern will then persist through to harvest, ultimately leading to uneven ripening. In extreme cases, this can lead to some vines forming berries while others are still flowering – and may even lead to the same block needing to be harvested twice at two different intervals.
If there are signs of uneven bud break, Christo and the team manage it through a tip-action: they remove the tips of the vines that broke early, slowing their growth for a few days and allowing the later-breaking vines time to catch up. These interventions help even out the growth rate between the buds, and ensures uniform growth as the vines approach flowering, cluster set, ripening and ultimately harvest.
This winter, our vines enjoyed plentiful cold units and a proper dormancy, resulting in even budbreak throughout most of the vineyards.
Bird's eye view: Library and vertical tastings in October 2024
Library tasting: Bordeaux cultivars
Let us indulge your palate with a meticulously curated experience featuring a brilliant lineup of Bordeaux varieties, namely the Merlot 2013, Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (1.5L), and Cabernet Franc 2014.
Cost: R600 per person
Vertical tasting: Cabernet Sauvignon
Our carefully selected vintages of Cabernet Sauvignon have aged gracefully over the years and a selection of specific vintages highlights the magnificence of this iconic variety, namely the 2013, 2014, 2015 (1.5L), and 2017 vintages.
Cost: R600 per person
All library and vertical tastings are strictly by appointment, only. Tastings include our complimentary snack platter consisting of olives, cheese and olive oil crackers.
Book your visit to Oldenburg via thetastingroom@oldenburgvineyards.com or call 021 885 1618.