South Africa saw this wine category thrive in the mid-20th century, but by the 80s, more than 30% of consumers had crossed the floor in favour of an emerging selection of table wines lower in sugar and alcohol. Nevertheless, Orange River Cellars chose a different course, swimming against the tide by introducing dessert wines like Muscadel and Jerepigo in 1983. This decision solidified their position as guardians of a centuries-old tradition, unwavering in the face of changing preferences.
There is something magically distinctive about fortified wines – whether you have discovered the rich Malaga’s from Spain, Italy's complex Marsalas, or the intensely sweet Rutherglens from Australia. When it comes to South African Muscadel, the M most stands for "morish" as its nostalgic medley of fruit and florals will urge any visitor to linger a little longer.
Sweet salvation
According to Herman le Roux, export manager at Orange River Cellars (ORC), the practice of fortifying wine for storage and transportation has been a cornerstone of the wine world for centuries. "The market that grew up with this age-old method is also getting on. Fortified, aka dessert wine, might not capture a younger consumer's imagination or may not resonate with their lifestyle. We are the ones who need to adapt and find ways to make this category more attractive to them."
Alas, arriving at Porto Airport, they banish archaic – d connotations with their Port tradition with elegant and intriguing marketing campaigns elevating Port as a contemporary drink. Yet stepping into the dim cellar of a port house in Portugal still gives you this feeling that transcends time: the air carrying the unmistakable scent of aged wood mingling with the distant echoes of artisans at work. In Spain, some of their Sherry soleras are older than a century, evoking that same sense of mystery. With its nagmaalwyn during NG Kerk communion, South Africa forged its place among the youngest protagonists in the global tapestry of fortified heritage. Now, it's time for these wines themselves to experience a spiritual awakening among young wine enthusiasts and fortify the essence of the Cape.
The marketing conundrum of fortifying a legacy
While change is inevitable, new regional designations in the early 2000s created hurdles for South Africa, says Le Roux and regulations protecting terms like "Port" and "Sherry" allowed their European counterparts to claim the names. ORC perseveres, still crafting their Old Brown, a wine that weaves rich prunes and deliberate oxidative notes into the warmth of a winter's evening or reveals its saline finish alongside mushroom arancini. Sadly, South Africa's dream of producing fine Sherry ended with dismantling most of the last soleras.
According to wine journalist Emile Joubert, South Africa has produced stupendous Muscadel and Jerepigo wines, some now icons among collectors. "They have, unfortunately, not gained international recognition due to a lack of marketing from the local industry. The geographical conditions of the Cape have allowed superb Port-style wines to be made, and in the 1950s and 1960s – with Palamino being a significant wine crop here – Cape sherry was exported to Europe in huge volumes."
Wine critic Micheal Fridjhon notes that slightly obscure wine categories often strike a balance between those who recognise their extraordinary quality and those who produce them:
"Accordingly, there is an equilibrium between supply and demand, and prices tick along accordingly. Lately, at the top-end price-wise (though sadly not so much in South Africa), there has been a run on the real treasures, sending prices into the stratosphere. The decline, when it came, followed Hemingway's famous line about bankruptcy: gradually and then suddenly. Unsurprisingly, farmers began grubbing up the vineyards which made the best muscadels because they were old, their yields were low, and prices had fallen too low to justify the cost of farming them or to contemplate replacing them. Of the remaining plantings, many now yield fruit for aromatic everyday table wines."
Cape Wine Master Bennie Howard emphasises the importance of cherishing dessert wines, an often-overlooked part of South Africa's wine history. "These wines have the potential to age gracefully and should be regarded as valuable assets rather than outdated burdens."
Navigating challenges and embracing innovation
At the recent Michelangelo Wine Awards, the Omstaan Muscadel 11 Years clinched a prestigious Platinum award, while the Omstaan 10 Years garnered a Double Gold. These awards underscore the winery's innovative approach to crafting exceptional fortified Muscadel wines.
Innovation is now as crucial as tradition for ORC. One of their initiatives, spearheaded by Johan Dippenaar, known as Mosdop, involves crafting stellar blends of Muscadels from ten and eleven different vintages – a first in South Africa. While many fortified wines can be enjoyed as aperitifs, in cocktails, or as a glaze for your Christmas gammon, the Omstaan Muscadels demand a different approach.
Can a classic Old Fashioned cocktail cede the spotlight to the burnished copper glow of the award-winning Omstaan White Muscadel XI? Absolutely! Its rich melange of sweet-savoury orange, ginger, and almond nuances promise to delight a younger audience, exuding an exquisite and memorable elegance.
On the other hand, the Omstaan Red Muscadel, a blend of ten vintages, showcases a jewel box of ruby and citrus tones. The wine is sophisticated with a toasty mocha and sandalwood perfume, balanced with a crunchy zest of freshly sliced nectarines and a lingering sweetness that culminates in a dry finish.
These innovative styles champion the revival of fortified wines, imbuing them with a modern twist that resonates with contemporary tastes.
A mouthful of character
While Le Roux acknowledges that highlighting Muscadel and Hanepoot's uniqueness is a step forward, certain international markets, like China, may not resonate with the name "Jerepigo," a sweet wine produced without fermentation and fortified with grape spirit, appearing sweeter than Muscadel. However, despite the sweet showdown between Muscadel, Jerepigo and Hanepoot, these wines stand their ground in domestic markets.
The ORC White Jerepigo, with its apricot hue and aromas of Turkish peaches, almonds, marzipan, and macerated sultanas, is a captivating option. The added spirits buffer its sweetness, making it a delightful companion to lemon tart served with somewhat salty, preserved lemons. The equally luscious ORC Red Jerepigo, with its darker and denser profile, pairs beautifully with poached pears infused with cloves and star anise, crowned with a generous scoop of vanilla bean ice cream.
Dippenaar doesn't shy away from addressing the obstacles.
"Fortified wines have always been a part of our offering, and the Northern Cape's climate is ideal Muscadel production. The region's warmth and deep soils allow Muscadel grapes to accumulate sugar rapidly while maintaining acidity, a feat not easily achieved in the Boland, where ripening occurs later. The cool evenings, often followed by a robust white frost, lend uniqueness to the terroirs of ORC's vineyards, which stretch across Uptington, Keimoes, Kakamas, Grootdrink, and Groblershoop."
The interplay of these climatic conditions and diverse terroirs, with distinct islands along the river moderating temperatures that can swiftly escalate by up to eight degrees inland, enables ORC to produce a remarkable array of wine styles.
The Hanepoot, crafted from Muscat de Alexandrie, exhibits a lemony freshness. Brighter and lighter than its Jerepigo counterparts, it boasts a quintessential grapy and rose petal perfume, leaving delightful traces of cooked quince and nartjie, inviting a bowl of lychee sorbet and fresh mint leaves. The ORC White Muscadel, with its pale gold hue and jasmine and orange blossom notes, offers a taste experience enriched by loquat and tinned baby apples, culminating in a delicious, tangy balance. Enjoy it chilled or mix it with ginger ale and a slice of lemon for a refreshing summer spritzer.
Dare to be different
The ORC team recognizes the need for a multifaceted approach to rekindle the fortified wine culture and engage modern consumers whose preferences lean towards lighter, fresher libations. Armed with a skilled team and an eagerness to execute innovative marketing campaigns, including collaborations with mixologists and trendy food and fortified wine pairings, they aim to cultivate an appreciation for the rich history of fortified wines. While already crafting styles that seamlessly bridge tradition and modernity, Le Roux and Dippenaar concur that captivating new generations with nuanced flavours and versatile ways of enjoying fortified wines are undoubtedly the way forward.
Jerepigo's caramel-like sweetness harmonizes with indulgent desserts like chocolate fondue. Muscadel's floral character shines with blue cheeses and spicy dishes. So beyond traditional sipping, fortified wines have the power to exceed expectations, infusing depth into culinary experiences. Whether it's a music and Muscadel evening or a rendezvous of Sherry and sorbet under the stars this summer, Orange River Cellars has embarked on an exciting journey to captivate its existing and burgeoning audiences with unique fortified concoctions.
In conclusion, Orange River Cellars remains a beacon of a fortified wine culture, unyielding in its commitment to preserving tradition while embracing change.