Michael Völker hasn’t tilled his soil in nearly seven years. He hadn’t intended to bypass tilling altogether, but after tinkering with countless types of compost, he began to notice some changes. Völker, one half of the winemaking duo 2NaturKinder in Franken, Germany, first spotted that his soil had taken on a richer hue a few years in. Then came the earthworms, followed by mushrooms. And several years later, he detected clusters of white powdery-looking flecks—a sign that Völker’s soil was finally happy.
As winegrowers look for creative ways to ward off the impacts of climate change, some age-old methods are showing up when least expected. By leaving the deeper layers of soil untouched, Völker allowed for the proliferation of mycorrhizal fungi that are anything but novel.
Mycorrhizal fungi established a survival plan nearly 400 million years ago, when they evolved a mutually beneficial relationship with plants that allowed them to increase their longevity. These fungi, made up of filaments and mushroom fruiting bodies (the stem and cap), attach to a plant’s roots and live off its carbohydrates. In turn, it helps the roots absorb more water, phosphorus, nitrogen, and other chemical compounds essential for healthy vines.
As they grow, the root-like threads, called mycelium filaments, which are thinner than a vine’s roots, descend deeper into the soil, surpassing the roots. In some cases, mycorrhizal fungi can expand a plant’s root systems by as much as 700 times. This symbiotic relationship, called mycorrhiza, is present in at least 90 percent of all land plants, but viticulturists have caught on that if they take a regenerative approach to their farming, they may be able to harness the positive impacts of mycorrhizae for their vines.
An answer to vineyard diseases
Most viticulturists see fungus as a bad thing; downy mildew and black rot can eviscerate an entire harvest. And while wine pros often learn about the beneficial impacts of botrytis cinerea, it’s not the only fungal association that can bring good news to winemakers.
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