Harvest comes early
Whether it is part of the global trend seen over the past few years, or a complete aberration (only time will tell), this year's harvest is undoubtedly early. A combination of factors has brought many of our picking dates forward by up to three weeks compared to last year. The main contributing factor was the dry conditions experienced during spring, which have persisted throughout the summer. Thankfully, we have not experienced too much heat, though the usual warmer weeks in February played a role in accelerating optimal ripeness.
This year we have had to juggle like professionals at Oldenburg Vineyards, as the most challenging feature of the 2023 harvest has been the concertina effect causing many of the different cultivars ripening at similar times. Few people realise that each grape variety has a particular ripening time. It begins in spring when budburst differs in timing depending on the cultivar. Added to this is the specific vineyard site. In our case, in a place with a higher altitude and less morning and evening sunshine, the harvest will normally be later than in areas with contrasting elements.
Nonetheless, everything has to ripen at some point, and when things come early, those points are much closer together. Our primary decision point is taste. Are the flavours where Nic and Christo want them, and are the phenolic elements such as skin, pips and related tannins optimally ripe? Our harvesting team pick early in the morning, into small 'lug' boxes, which head into the cool room with minimal delay. This brings their temperature rapidly down to 4°C, allowing us to maintain the cold-chain. This allows us to stagger the processing of the grapes perfectly. For me, the substantial energy needed for the cool room being drawn from the solar panels on the cellar roof is a godsend, particularly given the current load-shedding debacle. This year we have managed to perform whole bunch pressing on all the white grapes. Although this does take a few hours longer per batch than destemming and crushing, it results in a gentler press and optimises the phenolics from skin contact, which Nic prefers.
Our attention to detail across all the variables (of which there are many) of the harvest has never been better. A culmination of the learning curve, but I think the real driver that always puts a smile on my face is the positive team spirit that is abundantly evident and comes from having two talented individuals - Nic and Christo setting the pace and leading their people through the tough daily challenges. Bravo!
This month we have released our Oldenburg Vineyards Chardonnay 2022. You can enjoy more on that in the TeleView, where Nic and Stefan taste and discuss this wine. I can tell you that Nic and the team have yet again nailed it - this wine is terrific!
This harvest, we have brought our Terraces Syrah block back into production. This site is one of the windiest on the farm, and the previous trellising was not suited to these harsh conditions, with the wind causing the vine to shred itself on the wires on the windier days. We decided to augment the vines into a bush vine, so we cut it about 30cm from the ground and have now been waiting several years for them to be regrown and bear fruit. Back in the days with Covid-19 preventing travel, one of our consultants did Zoom calls from Italy to advise us on the pruning methodology - directly to the team in the vineyard. This first harvest of this newly formed, rugby-ball shaped vines will bring us a Syrah component with a bit of white pepper spiciness - great to have it back in the mix.
With all the acceleration in harvest, the king of grapes - Cabernet Sauvignon - continues to sit patiently, waiting for its turn to be picked in March. Nic tells me he is super excited by the developing quality, so we must wait patiently and hope the dry, cooler conditions continue for a few more weeks. There is always a degree of nervousness that one feels being at the mercy of the weather gods, but then again, that is farming!
History of Chardonnay
There are few varietals as prevalent around the world as Chardonnay. It features front-and-center as much in the Old World (especially in France) as it does in the New World (including the USA, Australia, New Zealand, Argentina and, of course, South Africa). This grape variety translates growing conditions extremely well. Cool climate examples show an abundance of fruit like apple, melon, pineapple and hints of citrus. Warmer climates have more nuanced fruit but express butterscotch, honey, and nut flavours.
Genetically, Chardonnay is the result of crossings between Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Gouias Blanc. The origins are uncertain but likely due to Roman plantings of Gouias Blanc in areas where Pinot Noir was also found, resulting in natural cross-pollination.
The origins of Chardonnay in South Africa are like something out of a spy novel. A covert and coordinated effort between Danie de Wet, Jan ‘Boland’ Coetzee and journalist Fritz Joubert saw illicit cuttings (made by Jan, from vines at Clos des Mouches) snuck across borders and back into South Africa, defying import controls on vine stock that were in place at the time. From there, the material was propagated to plant onto rootstocks, and the cultivar was established on home soil.
At Oldenburg Vineyards, our first Chardonnay block was planted in 2006. In 2024, we will have eight blocks in total. Our neighbours, Thelema, were the first producers in the Banghoek to plant Chardonnay, and since then the area has shown the incredible potential this varietal has in our valley – with Banghoek producers excelling in the latest Platter Guide, raking in a number of 5-star ratings, and positioning the ward as the strongest area for top Stellenbosch Chardonnay.
At present, Chardonnay is the most planted white varietal on Oldenburg, with vines producing top quality grapes, that are made into award-winning wines.
Chenin Blanc 2022
Chenin Blanc has come an incredibly long way in South Africa in recent years. Gone are the days of flooding international markets with bulk wine from grapes that were destined to be the base wine for Brandy.
At it’s core, Chenin is a beautifully versatile grape, allowing it to be crafted into still wines, sweet wines and even sparkling form, thanks in part to its racy acidity and plethora of aromas and flavours. How invigorating and exciting to see Chenin take the centre-stage repeatedly at an international level and raking up awards that were often held by the “Old World.”
Indeed, the Oldenburg Vineyards Chenin Blanc 2020 set the bar incredibly high, being rated as one of Decanter’s Wines of the Year 2021, coming in at 97 points. We strongly believe we may have another cracker of a vintage with the 2022 Chenin, due for release early in March.
The grapes for this year’s Chenin were picked from cooler climate vineyards with an average age of 40 years, contributing a gentle note of citrus pith. Additionally, you’ll be enticed by layers of beeswax, chamomile and ginger spice that promise many years’ worth of development over the next 8-12 years.
The Chenin Blanc 2022 is available online and from The Tasting Room, at R350 per bottle.
Bird's eye view
Join us for a Library & Vertical Tastings this March at our tasting room.
Vertical Tasting – Chenin Blanc
Enjoy a comparative tasting of Chenin Blancs to compare and contrast a select number of vintages, including the 2015, 2018, 2019 and 2022 vintages.
Cost: R350 per person
Library Tasting – Bordeaux Cultivars
Explore a curated selection of our finest examples of Bordeaux cultivars, including the Merlot 2014, Cabernet Franc 2015 and the Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 (magnum).
Cost: R500 per person
All Library and Vertical tastings are strictly by appointment, only. Tastings include our complimentary snack platter consisting of olives, cheese and olive oil crackers.