The vast majority of South Africa’s wine production happens in the Cape Winelands. About 223,660 acres of grapevines span the foothills of dramatic coastal mountains in Table Mountain National Park and continue into the river valleys. The area encompasses 30 distinct growing districts, ranging in elevation, rainfall, soil types, and weather patterns.
The incredible diversity of the terroir, the grapes, and the wine styles put it on par with some of the world’s best regions. But it’s impossible to ignore the dark legacy of South Africa’s past.
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It is impossible to make this kind of innate injustice entirely right. It is even more absurd to think that one industry could right those wrongs. And yet, it feels equally intolerable not to try and to not, at the very least, set the wine industry — and, perhaps in the process, the entire country — on a path toward a more just tomorrow.
Organizations stepping up
After the overturning of apartheid, the nations boycotting products from South Africa began welcoming the country’s wine again. While the industry began to blossom, it soon became clear that the success was lopsided. As a result, several organizations were launched to help level the playing field.
Fairtrade Africa
One of the first organizations designed to make workers’ current and future lives better was Fairtrade Africa.
“2003 was the first year the label appeared on the market,” explains Sandra Ndlovu, the director of communication for Fairtrade Africa’s branch in South Africa. “It was created to promote the rights of workers, with a portion of every sale put into a communal fund that will improve the lives of workers and give them access to healthcare, educational opportunities, and better housing.”
The money translates to about $0.04 per bottle, which goes into a legal trust managed by the workers. A separate board provides financial and investment advice.
Pinotage Youth Development Academy
The Pinotage Youth Development Academy (PYDA) began a decade ago to help young Black South Africans create a space for themselves in the wine industry.
“We saw an immense potential in South African youth, with very little access to opportunity or even knowledge of the wine industry,” says Nikki Munro, PYDA’s program director and founder. “To realize that potential, we created vocational training programs for the next generation of wine and tourism workers.”
Thus far, almost 500 students have graduated from the program, with 90% finding employment within six months. Funds for the nonprofit come entirely from donors, with Munro saying they operate on a $550,000 annual budget.
Pebbles Project
Another initiative, the Pebbles Project, was established in 2004 to improve the lives and futures of workers’ children.
“Our primary focus is on education, health, nutrition, and community,” says co-founder Carolyn Martin, co-owner of Creation Wines in Hemel-en-Aarde. “The Pebbles Project focuses on enriching the lives of families in the agricultural communities of the Western Cape. Many children live in challenging circumstances; we focus on the entire life of the child and aim to create change.”
Last year, around $1.7 million was raised, with almost 500,000 meals cooked and distributed through their kitchens...
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