The early Banhoek was a fearsome place; in the early 1700s lions and leopards stalked its rocky corridors, with equally fierce hippos languishing in the nearby Berg River sending most early settlers running. The abundant wildlife combined with the dizzying height of the treacherous mountain passes gave this Stellenbosch ward its name, translating to “scared corner”. It was only the brave who first broke ground here.
Today, the Helshoogte Pass (“hell’s heights”) carves through the undulating mountain region, granting visitors much easier passage than previous explorers. Like a tablecloth pushed to the centre, the vines are planted on mountain folds, at elevations of between 350 and 640 metres. Leopards are still spotted prowling in its altitudinous peaks, the proof delivered in photographs from motion sensor cameras set up in some vineyards.
The coolest Wine of Origin ward in the Stellenbosch area, Banhoek Valley receives around 900ml of rain annually, meaning the majority of farms are dryland farmed, as there is always an excess of natural water.
Though one of the smaller wards in the Winelands, the collected estates more than make up for it with their excellent wines. The variety produced here covers the full spectrum of classic cultivars. The cool climate and high-diurnal swings from the varying altitudes result in periods of slow ripening, which ramps up flavour concentration while retaining acidity. Calling cards for the area are the cabernet sauvignons and Bordeaux blends as well as the fine, elegant whites.
Join us as we embark on a tour of the valley.
Tokara
“We get late-season snow, sometimes right down in the vineyards,” remarks viticulturist Aidan Morton on the undeniable coolness of the valley. Aidan has a deep understanding of this liminal place, in between Stellenbosch and this icy, eastern fringe of mountains; he has, after all, spent over 20 years understanding the terroir at the helm of Tokara’s viti team.
Tokara is somewhat of a wine wonderland, every detail here is considered, based on the tenets of wine, food, art.
Do the wine part in the exquisite glass walled tasting room, which gives you a feeling of flying above the vineyards. Food? There are two – fantastic – restaurants, Tokara Restaurant leads off the tasting room, and is the more fine-dining domain of rising star Carolize Coetzee. Then, a winding track away from here will take you to the Deli, where the dining is more relaxed and offers one of the Winelands’ best children’s playgrounds. Next door is the olive press; all of the estate’s award-winning olive products are available in the Deli to taste and purchase. And throughout, the art will take your eye on a journey.
Thelema
Snaking though copse after copse of trees, the air gradually becoming thinner, flintier, mountain-tinged, you finally arrive at Thelema’s tasting room. Established in 1983 by South African wine legend, Gyles Webb, they were one of the first families to pioneer this area, quickly becoming famous for the The Mint Cabernet Sauvignon, with its distinct eucalyptol aromas.
That vineyard has long been pulled out, but its range of wines continues to go from strength to strength. Son, Thomas Webb, is now the driving force into the future as general manager. Settle into the forested tasting room and taste both Thelema’s wines as well as Sutherland’s, their Elgin property.
Delaire Graff
An oasis of luxury perched atop the Helshoogte Pass, Delaire meaning eyrie was so named for its spectacular bird’s eye view across the valley. Intense detail and hyper-luxury alight on every facet here; incorporating a state-of-the-art cellar, two restaurants (one is fine-dining) as well as high-end clothing and jewellery boutiques (yes, the owner is the diamond Graff).
Acting as their own personal eyries are the sumptuous lodges at the edges of the property, designed to let all that spectacular scenery spill in, floating above Banhoek in a way the early explorers could never have imagined. Adjacent to this is the spa of dreams, ticking every box.
Though it must be said, one of the major highlights of a visit here is to simply stroll about the property, taking in Laurence Graff’s private art collection featuring many famed local artists – in itself a privilege.
Miles Mossop Wines
“The beauty and intrigue of the Banhoek is the diversity; from soil types, slopes, aspects, sun intensity, rainfall, wind… basically absolutely everything that has an impact on what you can grow,” says celebrated winemaker Miles Mossop. The winemaker at neighbouring Tokara for 20 years before going on his own, Miles’ eponymous range celebrates what he cherishes: family and nature. While you can’t visit his winery, you can visit his valley – and, of course, drink his superlative wines.
Click HERE to see the full list.