In 2020, several critical events caused the wine industry to reckon with the underrepresentation and mistreatment of marginalized groups in all sectors of the trade. The industry found itself under intense scrutiny from within and without.
Pledges were made, black boxes were posted and money was donated. After nearly two years, have “we”—the collective wine industry—made any significant changes?
Doing the work
“We’re at the very primary version of this change, where doors are being opened and gates are being broken apart,” says Miguel de Leon, wine director of Pinch Chinese, who’s written several influential articles about social justice, equity and systemic inequalities in the wine space. But, he adds, “We run the risk of doing the bare minimum and saying that’s enough.”
There are, de Leon notes, certain areas where applied pressure has led to significant changes. “Education has—we’ve concluded that in order for us to have full ownership of the spaces we inhabit, we must create them ourselves,” he says, pointing to organizations like The Hue Society, where he sits as a council advisor, and the Roots Fund.
On the flip side, previously established educational bodies are also making strides toward diversity, equity and inclusivity. “The WSET [is] taking big steps to re-examine standards for what’s allowed on the tasting grid, defined by regionality, which has big implications for global shift in the conversation,” says de Leon.
In terms of wineries and wine brands, steps toward change need to come from within, starting with those in leadership positions. And those changes need to be in public view.
“If places of business want to welcome diversity and provide equal opportunities to all—whether we’re talking about race, gender, religion, ethnicity, sexual orientation, age, disability or any other marginalized group in society—their public image should provide a reflection of the type of employee and clientele they welcome,” says Theresa Heredia, winemaker at Gary Farrell Winery and active advocate for the LGBTQ+ community.
This includes social media posts and images, food-wine pairings, tech sheet information and tasting note verbiage, Heredia says.
Ethics should also be reflected in how wineries spend their time, money and other resources. Gary Farrell Winery, for its part, sponsors and donates to several events and organisations, including the Human Rights Campaign (HRC) and its Major Donor Leadership Summit, as well as Art4Equality.
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Giving a hand-up, not a hand-out
It’s hard to get a job in the wine industry, especially for the inexperienced, and even more so for inexperienced minorities.
The seventh-largest producer of wine in the world, Africa’s southernmost country boasts long, balmy summers, wet winters, and well-drained soils — ideal conditions for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chenin Blanc, South Africa’s best-loved varietals.
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